Rouens. Master chocolatier Jean-Marie Auzou sells his shops after 62 years of career
By Adrian Filoche
Published on
“A full life! » The famous master chocolatier Jean Marie Auzou a decision to end a 62-year career by selling its seven shops (including two in Rouen, rue du Gros Horloge and rue des Carmes) as well as the Val de Reuil laboratory, in the Eure. The information, revealed by our colleagues from Paris Normandy, we were confirmed by Jean-Marie Auzou. “You know, the first reason is age,” says the 75-year-old chocolatier, from Rouen. It’s the Dolfi family (read box)in particular owner of the prestigious brands “À la mère de famille” and of the “Stohrer” pastry shop which will take up the torch.
First steps
It was at the age of 14 that Jean-Marie Auzou began to discover the profession with an Alsatian boss, deployed in Saint-Quentin in Hauts-de-France. “There were 18 of us working at the time. We learned a lot, and we didn’t count the hours,” says the chocolate maker with a smile, a bit nostalgic.
At 17, he seized the opportunity to go up to Paris to learn how to perfect his craft. The idea of opening his own shop germinates in his head, and takes an increasingly important place. It was finally in Évreux, in 1970, that Jean-Marie Auzou opened his first boutique. A year later, he launched the Zouzous d’Auzou (nickname his friends gave him when he was younger), an almond praline, nougatine coated in chocolate rolled in sugar.
Auzou bought by a prestigious Parisian family
“It’s a high quality house”, assures Jean-Marie Auzou. The chocolatier is full of praise for its buyer, the Dolfi family, made up of Etienne Dolfi and his four children. Negotiations were concluded in June 2022. In addition to Auzou, this prestigious family house notably contains “À la mère de famille”, the oldest chocolate factory in Paris, founded in 1761, but also the historic Parisian pastry shop Stohrer.
Shops in Rouen, his native land
When he retraces his career, he emphasizes on several occasions that he “was lucky”. But Jean-Marie Auzou also insists on the work, and the unfailing support of his family, in particular Patricia, his wife: “All that is teamwork! »
In 1979, Jean-Marie Auzou finally returned to Rouen, his native land. “At that time, there was not much in the rue du Gros-Horloge. » Inspired by the history of Rouen, the creator imagined a new recipe in 1985: the tears of Joan of Arc, a small grilled almond nougatine flavor, coated in chocolate and rolled in cocoa.
A few years later, the Macarons de la Grand-Mère Auzou complete the range of her confections. “We started with old-fashioned macaroons that my grandmother served me when I was little on newsprint,” he says. And to add: “Since then, we have always updated our macaroons, developing several flavors: raspberry, chocolate, pistachio, vanilla, caramel, etc. »
“I have not found a successor”
If the negotiations were concluded without too much difficulty, the sale of his shops to the Dolfi family was not the first choice of Jean-Marie Auzou. “In the laboratory, I had several times decided to take on a collaborator, but I didn’t have a replacement on that side. I had one of my former workers who lasted three years, and after that he said that it weighed on him. I can understand,” says the craftsman.
Despite everything, the Auzou “leg” has managed to be passed on, generation after generation, with more than 330 apprentices trained by the master chocolatier. “I continue to follow him, there are some in Scotland, others all over the world. They come back to see me, and are called ‘boss’ by someone 40 years old, it always makes you smile, ”comments Jean-Marie Auzou, laughing.
The name of Auzou, which has an aura on the scale of Normandy, but also beyond, will therefore not disappear immediately. Indeed, the new buyers told Jean-Marie Auzou that the name of the Norman family would remain on the storefronts.
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