When the crisis is not an opportunity. Prague has lost its tasteful attractions for tourists
Two pandemic years decimated the businesses that made money from tourism, and the physical presence of the visitor in the city provided them with a daily livelihood: from cafes, to shops and guides.
I deliberately did not want to pay attention to people who run tourist traps with generic goods or to those who opened another branch of the bakery at Trdelník.
On the contrary, I focused on those I know and trust, entrepreneurs who simply wanted to use the potential of the millions of people who visit Prague every year.
“We packed it up and took the equipment, including the coffee machine, to the cottage on the attic,” says Jan Maťátko, who with his two business partners Olga and Anna, opened the successful café Tricafé in 2013 in the center of Prague.
Before the pandemic, the café had been operating very successfully for more than seven years and was one of the ones that tourists preferred to take pictures on Instagram. It was one of several sympathetic central places where tourists and locals naturally mixed up and didn’t mind each other.
“Tourists have estimated to generate about sixty or seventy percent of visitors, but we also had a steady income from the people who worked around, several nearby schools, and from dancers and ballet people,” Honza recalls.
You could find the café on the miniature Anenské náměstí near the Na Zábradlí Theater, which also houses the ballet rehearsals of the National Theater.
The advantage of the café, which also once rented it, was in the locality – the square is a bit sideways, but Charles Bridge and Charles Street, full of cracks in the season, are only a two-minute walk away.
On the contrary, what was originally an advantage on March 020 became a significant problem.
“A minimum of people live here. In the house where we had a cafe, there were a number of apartments for short-term rent. The moment they came to see them, they suddenly stopped completely, the surrounding schools closed and the people who worked around us under normal circumstances moved to the forced home office, we were suddenly almost without customers. There were also days when two people came for the whole day, “he explains.
The final decision to close came in September 2020. A new lockdown and a strong appeal by the German government to keep the Germans, who at that time made up a large part of foreign visitors to Prague, did not go to the Czech Republic.
They knocked down the first three months of the lockdown with government support. However, this meant that they dismissed all employees and temporary workers, the owner had to serve the whole day. It picked up a bit in the summer, but in September, when it started to look pale again.
“I went to the landlord then to see if she was willing to cut our rent for a short time. I expected him to meet our needs. But she made it clear that it was out of the question, so we agreed on a resignation and packed everything up in a few days, “says Honza, who, after a short time, tried to find a new space in a more residential part of Prague. sports brand manager.
“Paradoxically, the space has now been closed for over a year and without a tenant. “Even at the entrance, even after more than a year, a sign hangs that Tricafé is ending here,” he shrugs.
Lenka Hluchá also experienced a completely different approach to the above. “The municipal joint-stock company that takes care of the Platýz passage, where one of our stores was located, has strictly rejected a short-term rent reduction,” Lenka explains one of the reasons why she no longer does business.
In 2015, Lenka decided to create original, modern souvenirs from Prague, which were also designed by local designers and illustrators.
The Pragtique brand, whose store in Platýz was nominated for the Czech Grand Design Award a few years ago, has grown over the course of a few years. In 2020, before the pandemic, Lenka ran two branches, in addition to the one in Platýz, an even smaller store in Mostecká Street near Charles Bridge, and an e-shop.
“While the private owner, with whom we were in Mostecký, I had no problem with the short-term reduction at all, the Platýza operator, a company in the city of Prague, was absolutely unequivocal about the reduction,” Lenka shrugs.
Moreover, the city’s illogical intransigence was in direct conflict with the city’s official position, which during the pandemic made it clear that it wanted to help and accommodate local entrepreneurs as much as possible.
“It is possible that I could have trampled it, went to someone at the town hall or something, but I accepted it just the way it is,” he adds.
In a situation where they suddenly found themselves from stable incomes to virtually zero, Lenka was definitely not alone. In a similar segment, ie modern (or high-quality) souvenirs for tourists, at least two other brands were created – Lípa and From Prague With Love. But they also closed their stores very soon after the lockdown began.
Like the owner of the Tricafé café, Lenka also found another job after some time.
“Even with the help of the state, it is not sustainable to take it further if your income falls by, for example, eighty percent. Although Minister Havlíček claimed several times on television that the government would pay one hundred percent of the rent to entrepreneurs, this never happened. For some, it is a shock, but there are a number of shops in the center of Prague that pay rent, for example, over a hundred thousand a month, Lenka thinks.
“And when the government gives you half, it still means you have to pay over fifty. To do this, you have additional costs for the sellers, the goods and for yourself, “he calculates. Pragtique stores thus remain closed. But Lenka takes it in stride.
“I, I still get out of it, but the owner of the cut glass company, who has been producing glass and souvenirs since the early 1990s, had a shop in Mostecký. He had done this half his life, employed ten grinders, and knew that if he released them, he would not find others. In the meantime, the original ones will find work in another field, and the younger generation can no longer do the craft. “
Jan Valenta, who together with his wife Zuzana runs gastronomic tours of the city of Taste of Prague, was no different in March 2020.
“All we did all day was canceled one tour after another. And we couldn’t exchange people other terms or at least tell them when it would end. Nobody knew anything, “Honza recalls of the chaotic period after the first lockdown last spring.
The gastronomic tours, which have been held together with Zuzana since 2011, should have been particularly suitable, they were not tied to a physical place with a fixed rent. but it wasn’t much better with regard to staff: “At the beginning of 2020, five other people were doing it besides the two of us. We all had to let them go, there was simply no work from day to day, ”he recapitulates.
“They survived most of last year so that we are also local fans. That is why last summer, instead of tours of Prague’s restaurants, we started a lot of trips to Moravia for wine, where people from Prague also enjoyed going with us. We also started a project with restaurants Společné potravin, “describes Jan.
“People got home gastronomic sets that they could finish and have a pleasant evening by candlelight. We tried to disrupt the general fashion a bit. Suddenly, it seemed that everyone was sitting at home in sweatpants at the ordered phò and watching Netlfix, ”he lists the new projects.
But what did the last two years look like for a gastronomic guide in terms of numbers?
According to Jan Valenta, 2020 was a disaster. In March or April last year, they were at one percent of the usual bookings. They were very dependent on Americans because they are the most used by the United States for this type of inspection. They dropped out almost completely last year because they were afraid to travel. Sometimes they performed a few Germans, but we really focused more on the locals.
“The year 2021 has been significantly better so far. Prague is the busiest in May and September. For the last three months until November, we had a pretty busy schedule again, but with the new measures, it went down steeply again. The main trouble for us are the canceled Christmas markets. You go to Prague for a large number of people, “says Honza Valenta.
When Honza calculates the places he took during the pandemic, he lists, in addition to the above-mentioned shops Pragtique or From Prague With Love, also the cocktail bar Cash Only. Not even the pandemic survived.
But the good news is that after the successful summer, three of the original guides started working for Taste of Prague again.
According to data from the Prague City Tourism agency, in 2019 more than eight million foreign and domestic tourists visited Prague. In 2020, during the peak of the pandemic, it was just over two million.
The difference of six million people, which included not only hotels and a number of private landlords, but also restaurants, bistros, pubs and shops, especially in the city center, knocked down many ties. Part of the tourism business is still holding on, but it is not clear how long it will be.
“I think we will be in a precarious circle for a while, maybe a few years,” thinks owner Honza Maťátko, a former Tricafé. Even so, he would like to return to the operation of the café one day. But he claims that it will not be right away, simply because he has a baby at any moment and needs some work.
In a year or two, she would easily open a café, but maybe not in Prague, but in Ústí nad Orlicí, where she comes from.