Unknown places of Prague VIII: The arms of the mystical cross intersect in the right center of the city
Symbolism with a bit of mysticism has always had its place in Prague. This was already the case during the time of the Přemyslovs, even Emperor Charles IV incorporated symbols and hidden meanings into his buildings, and the flourishing of mysticism and especially alchemy dates back to the reign of Emperor Rudolph II. from the House of Habsburg.
One of the oldest symbolic elements that can be seen in Prague to this day is the so-called old cross, which consists of a total of five buildings. There are two on each arm of the cross, the two arms of the cross then intersect at the location of the fifth structure referred to as the right center of the city. And how did such a cross actually come about and what was it for? In ancient times, it was said that such a cross was a certain form of blessing of the city. Thus, through their architects, the rulers imprinted themselves on the image of the city and built crosses of churches on its territory, which were supposed to ensure peace and prosperity for their city.
The basilica of Prince Spytihnev once stood on the first arm of the cross. Today we would look for it in vain. Time wanted it that way. Spytihnev’s basilica had already replaced the Romanesque rotunda of St. Welcome. Today, we come across this place every time we visit Prague Castle, specifically Cathedral of St. Welcome.
Photo: Tilman2007 / Wikipedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
Cathedral of St. Vita stands at the end of one of the arms of the cross of the church
It is located at the opposite end of the first arm of the cross St. Rotunda Longinus. It still exists today, but back then it was built in the village of Rybníček, which is now part of the New Town. However, the name of the village was transferred to the name of today’s street, which is called Na Rybníčku and which can be found near today’s IP Pavlova square.
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Rotunda of St. Longina near IPPavlov
The other arm of the cross ends at one end church of St. Clement. It is a Gothic-style church located in today’s Klimentská street. However, two Romanesque churches previously stood in its place, from the end of the 10th century. One of them was the original end of the other arm of the old cross. Even so, the church of St. Klimenta, one of the oldest in Prague.
Photo: Jan Polák / Wikipedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0
Church of St. Clement
Unfortunately, the opposite end of the other arm of the cross is empty today. originally stood there church of st. Jacob and St. Philip, and since roughly the 13th century. Unfortunately, over time it ceased to fulfill its purpose and began to deteriorate. It was demolished at the end of the 19th century. But if we look for the place where this church stood, we will find ourselves on today’s Arbes Square in Smíchov.
Photo: TRAVELER
The no longer existing church of St. Jacob and St. Filipa at the end of the 19th century
If we put these places on a map and connect two churches on one arm, then two churches on the other arm, the two arms of the cross will intersect in one special place. Right in the center of town.
This center is (however) located in the Old Town and still stands in this place today rotunda Finding St. The Lesser Cross from the 12th century. It is a beautiful Romanesque building, but today it is somewhat drowned in the surrounding modern development. However, regular services are still held there. It’s a strange feeling to step into the right center of the whole of Prague, even if that’s not quite the case today.
To the rotunda of St. The Lesser Cross is also associated with an interesting legend. According to this legend, there was once a pond at the site of the rotunda. The surrounding population was then pagan, but one of the local girls converted to Christianity. As punishment for this insolence, she was crucified and is thrown into this pond by the cross. However, during one strong storm, the cross emerged from the pond. This divine sign was the main reason for the construction of the aforementioned rotunda.
Photo: VitVit / Wikipedia Commons CC BY-SA 4.0
Rotunda Finding St. Kříž Menšího, right center of the city
However, contemporary sources claim that there was a burial ground here in the 10th century and the rotunda was there for this very reason. This version is confirmed by findings of bone remains during the construction and renovation of nearby houses.
Although the Rotunda is a very old and simple building, it is really beautiful. Fortunately, it was not demolished, as was planned during the construction of the surrounding apartment buildings in the 19th century, and was spared. Thanks to this, we can still see it in the center of Prague today.