My husband and I spent last Christmas in Croatia. Here’s what we learned.
My husband, Brent, and I love Christmas. When we had a house in Seattle, decorations got more expensive Halloween Thanksgiving didn’t come until January 2nd. We were all about the twinkling lights, the fresh pine boughs on the mantle, the soundtrack to A Charlie Brown Christmas and – oh! Soy leg, because I’m lactose intolerant. Even Brent says it’s surprisingly close to the real thing.
We also watched Christmas specials – lots and lots of Christmas specials.
In our first two years as nomads, we returned to Seattle to celebrate the holiday with friends and family. Then Covid hit and it didn’t make much sense to go back, so we spent that first Covid Christmas in Puerto Vallarta, Mexico. We spent last year in Split, Croatia. (We’re in London this year. Look for a report on that very soon!)
We would rather be with friends and family, but we also enjoyed seeing how other cultures celebrate Christmas. In fact, honoring these other Christmas customs feels a little like Brent and I are starting a new holiday tradition of our own.
For example, in Croatia “Sretan Božić” is “Merry Christmas”. I’ve been practicing saying it, but even with my experience in Russian, I can’t quite get it.
Unfortunately, just like in Vienna, almost all the Christmas carols we heard were the familiar ones sung in English.
However, Croats definitely have their own unique holiday spirit – with, perhaps, less of the gross commercialization of America. As is the case throughout Europe, Christmas seems to be less about shopping and buying lots of presents – and more about eating, drinking and being merry.
Shops, squares and promenades are decorated with lights and decorations, and sidewalk cafes are full of people drinking mulled wine.
Split even has its own Christmas market.
But European Christmas markets are nothing like shopping malls. They sell experience. Yes, they sell some Christmas decorations, along with other holiday items, but it’s mostly delicious food and drink.
How is Christmas different in Croatia?
For starters, I’m not sure I’ve ever seen a single Santa – although I’ve since learned that there is a Santa-style Santa Claus, which translates to Santa Claus.
As for Rudolph, there was no sign of him and his winking red nose.
Instead of Santa and Rudolph, look for Advent wreaths and candles. Most Croats are Roman Catholic – and still quite religious – so Advent and the Catholic mass are an important part of the holiday.
Also, look for Christmas wheat.
Christmas what?
On December 13 – Saint Lucia – some Christmas wheat is sown in a bowl. How tall it grows by Christmas symbolizes how happy the coming year will be.
I asked a local Croatian friend and she told me that the locals still do it and I think it’s a fantastic tradition. Too bad Brent and I missed the deadline!
Christmas Eve is called Christmas Eve, and Christmas is Christmas. Trees and garlands are usually not put up until Christmas Eve, when the Christmas grain is pruned and tied with ribbon.
Of course, food and drink are a big part of the holiday. Croats generally do not eat much on Christmas Eve. But when night falls, the feast begins, with a dish of cod, potatoes and sardines.
Then, on Christmas Day, dining continues with a dish of roasted turkey, duck or goose, accompanied by sarma, which are sarma stuffed with minced meat and rice. Along the way, there will be various sausages and cheeses, and lots and lots of baked goods, like fritters, a kind of Christmas doughnuts; poppy seed, type of poppy seed; and orachnjača, a sweet walnut roll.
Alas, that market was in Zagreb, the capital of Croatia, about 350 kilometers to the north.
We thought about a night trip to see this famous market, but ended up giving up. So we had to settle for the more modest Split Christmas market. But it was surprisingly sweet!
The market includes plenty of pop-up bars and outdoor restaurants, where people can mull mulled wine and enjoy a sausage or two – and maybe some (surprisingly cheap) onion rings.
The market included an ice rink? Actually, it’s more of an ice “path” that winds around the grass in the park.
Split is located right next to the Adriatic and rarely experiences a white Christmas. But thanks to a weather phenomenon called “storm” they sometimes have a very windy Christmas.
Below, see the decorations along the famous Split waterfront, also known as Riva. And yes, those are palm trees!