From the ponds to the scale stalls: the journey of the oysters to reach the markets of Toulouse
They are on all the tables for New Year’s Eve on December 24. In Toulouse, the master fishmonger Pascal Bellocq tells in detail the origin and the journey of his oysters which arrive on the Toulouse markets in 24 hours.
It’s not yet 9 o’clock in the morning, but the Victor-Hugo market is already very lively. At the fishmonger Pascal Bellocq’s stand, customers have an eye on lobsters, crabs and scallops, but especially oysters. “On a panel of quite different tastes, some of the sweetest, some with more character. It allows everyone to find what they want”, explains Pascal Bellocq.
From Saint-Vaast-la-Hougue to Marseillan
To arrive on the stalls, it is a long way that they have to travel. Pascal Bellocq works with several oyster farmers in different regions of France. They are mainly located in Normandy, in Saint-Vaast-la Hougue, in Charente-Maritime in the case of the Fine de Claire or Gilardeau appellations, but also in Occitanie in Marseillan, near Sète. “Farming can involve up to 3 years of work before the oysters leave”, explains Pascal Bellocq. “The oyster farmers take care that they grow well and polish them in order to make them presentable for sale”. It also indicates that weather conditions can have an effect on the taste of oysters. More fresh water from rain, for example, makes an oyster less salty.
Left the day before the oyster ponds
Delivery to the Bellocq fish market takes place 24 hours later than the sale. For example, the oysters that will be on the stand for Christmas Eve, Saturday December 24, leave the breeders the day before, around 7:30 am. On Friday evening, they arrive at the Toulouse MIN, the large regional platform. They are then distributed to be distributed to merchants in the city. They are finally delivered to the Victor Hugo market between 5:30 am and 6 am on December 24. “It’s like Chronopost but with 50 kg parcels! laughs Pascal Bellocq. “It’s really proof of the carriers’ technical prowess. The Toulouse scaler ensures that the oyster does not pose any conservation problems. “Our suppliers still transport them in a refrigerated truck at around 8 degrees, but some deliverers use conventional trucks. In December, the ambient temperature is often the same as in the water”.
No price increase
Since last year, the price of goods has not changed at the fishmonger. He benefits from an agreement with his suppliers, called a “campaign price”. With the exception of exceptional incidents such as a shortage of goods or an unexpected increase in transport costs, the supplier undertakes not to increase prices from month to month for merchants. For these end-of-year celebrations, customers can thus benefit from “very good quality at an affordable price”, describes Pascal Bellocq. On his stand, oysters are sold by the piece, for a price of between 0.85 cents and 3, depending on the variety and size. For the fishmonger, who sells more than thirty tons, it’s the busiest time of the year. “It takes 72 hours a day to do all the work,” he laughs. For New Year’s Eve, he advises to come and buy the day before instead of the same day. “It will be quieter, unless you want to queue for an hour and a half! December 24th is the biggest day.”