The taste of Paris – Why you will love Octave
Romain Meder came across vegetables and herbs in the spotlight alongside meat and fish at the Domaine de Primard bistro, in Eure-et-Loir.
By Thibaut Danancher
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VSIt was the home of Catherine Deneuve. Since spring 2021, it has been the latest addition to the Domaines de Fontenille collection. Frédéric Biousse and Guillaume Foucher have set sail 70 km west of Paris to venture to the Domaine de Primard. yougo green on the banks of the Eure which invites you to (re)discover the joys of the countryside over an 18th century buildinge century and its 40-hectare Garden of Eden. The opportunity found everything so that Point drive his cutlery to Guainville to taste the cuisine of Romain Meder.
The chef, who was crowned with 3 stars under the leadership of Alain Ducasse at the Plaza Athénée, landed in April in Eure-et-Loir. In line with the concept of Naturalness initiated in 2014 celebrating the sustainable vegetables-cereals-fish trilogy, the 44-year-old boy continues to sow the good seed. A tropism that we find at Octave, the bistro in the rural setting of the Domaine de Primard with its flowers and dried herbs sliding from the ceiling. Upon reading the menu, there is no doubt: the plant is at the center of the plate.
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vegetable kingdom
Starting with the five entrances where nuggets from the vegetable garden monopolize the leading roles. We let ourselves be tempted by the beetroot cooked in ashes (16 euros). It is revealed in a soup plate in the form of quarters sailing in a full-bodied juice. To electrify the sweet aromatic palette of the beetroot, Romain Meder bet on the bitterness of a leaf pesto and tansy leaves. The marriage of opposites works wonderfully and ends with an ode to iodine with trout eggs. Well seen ! Like this variation of butternut squash (14 euros): in cumin-flavoured velouté, in roasted cubes, in pickles. The autumnal ensemble is coaxed by an emulsified cloud of cottage cheese and puffed pumpkin seeds. Terribly regressive.
The continuation of the festivities brings together fish and meat always accompanied by a vegetable farandole. Don’t miss the line-caught bluefin tuna (36 euros) paired with candied peppers and arugula or the Mézenc prime rib of beef to share for two (84 euros) served with aubergines and mozzarella. For dessert, go off the beaten track by betting on the chocolate mousse studded with cocoa nibs and mini pieces of cake.
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For guests who would like to live the gastronomic experience, head for Les Chemins just next to Octave. Romain Meder has been playing there since the opening on September 15 a score even more rooted in the raw and market garden nature of the gardens of Primard where iodine often invites itself. In the program ? Tartlet with flax seeds and monkfish liver; chickpeas and snails; oyster sausage and seaweed; lobster and eggplant; chocolate, coffee and lentils… A realm of plants to discover right away.
Octave, D16, Guainville (Eure-et-Loir). Open Monday to Sunday for lunch and dinner. Menus: from €28 to €38 (dinner). Menu: from €41 to €76. 02.36.58.10.07. www.lesdomainesdefontenille.com
Paths. Open from Thursday evening to Sunday noon. Menus: €95 (lunch), €145, €185. 02.36.58.10.07.