History and culture of the three Baltic countries
In his latest travel destinations, where he explores remote places, John Waller visits Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania.
It is sometimes tempting to lump the three Baltic countries into one entity, as if they were a homogenous group. But in fact, they are each quite distinctive. Each country has its own unique language, its own history before the 20th century, and its own culture and national characteristics. Only since 1991 have these been allowed to flourish again.
However, their histories in the last century are similar. Both gained independence after World War I, but were followed by brutal invasions and occupations when World War II broke out: the Soviet Union in 1940, the Nazis in 1942; and then the Soviets again from 1945 to 1991. All three countries have (sometimes very graphic) museums documenting these foreign occupations.
During and after World War II, all three experienced massive population changes: when the Nazis liquidated their significant Jewish population; and then the Soviet Union deported intellectuals and dissidents to Siberia and replaced them with ethnic Russians. All three enthusiastically joined the EU as soon as they could. All have well-preserved (though very different) “old towns” where most visitors congregate.
Estonia is the northernmost of the three: population about one million, capital Tallinn, the most distinctive old town, still partially walled and with plenty of towers and spiers. It includes St. Olav’s Church: in the 16th century, the tallest building in Europe. Its language is related to Finnish; and Estonia’s outlook is Nordic; fast and easy ferry connections to Helsinki. It is probably the most digitized country in the world, with wifi even in the deepest forests (of which there are many). It is also one of the least religious countries in the world.
Although Tallinn is the main attraction, the university city of Tartu in the south is worth a visit. Or you can visit Narva, which is only separated from Russia by a narrow river; and now populated mostly by ethnic Russians. It is actually closer to Saint Petersburg than Tallinn.
Further south is Latvia: population around three million, capital Riga and an old town with plenty of bars and restaurants thanks to its popularity as a destination for Western stag and hen parties.
Although not as well-preserved as Tallinn, it has a relaxed character, stretching from the wide Daugava River to the ancient Gunpowder Tower and adjacent well-preserved officer’s barracks. Opposite the cannon you will find the iconic Taverna, which offers traditional Latvian food and beer.
The Latvian cities of Cesis and Sigulda are very far away by bus and train, and they offer castles and forest walks almost the only hilly area in the Baltics. You might even encounter the tragic nature of the Rose of Turaida Castle. Or you can visit the beach resort of Jurmela – even in summer the Baltic Sea is very cold; and often windy.
The southernmost Baltic state is Lithuania: population about five million, capital Vilnius. Here the old town is less obvious. Rather than being a separate area, the old buildings blend seamlessly with the newer ones; gives an attractive atmosphere to the whole city. The walk from the Gates of Dawn (Ausros Vartai), with its chapel built into the arch over the road, down to the castle tower, the cathedral and the royal palace (now an excellent museum) takes up most of it.
And visit Uzipis; Vilnius’ art quarter, which declared independence from Lithuania a few years ago. In addition to the artistic exhibitions, there is Snekutis, one of the quirkiest bars imaginable. Fortunately, they offer you a traditional Lithuanian dumpling dish known as cepelinai due to its shape.
Further afield you can get a bus or train to Trakai; a lake-based castle settlement with a long history. Or honor the nearly 100,000 Jews murdered by the Nazis in a forest near Paneria.
Of all the Balkan countries, Lithuania has the greatest history; once a kingdom that stretched all the way to the Black Sea. Today, Lithuania’s main orientation is towards Poland, with which it shares a wide border. It is also one of the most religious countries in the world; in stark contrast to Estonia, which is less than 200 miles away.
Anyone who wants to visit more than one of these fascinating countries can use the excellent LuxBus service between the three capitals (about every four hours each).
But one caveat. My several visits to the Baltics, on which this article is based, all took place between 2010 and 2016. Some things may have changed since then. All three countries share a border with Russia and/or Belarus. and the situation may be less relaxed now.
But for the same reasons, these three small countries need our support more than ever – and that includes our tourism.