Wheely wild: Discover the joys of Croatia on a ‘bicycle cruise’
After pedaling steadily uphill for what seems like a lifetime with only the sound of my own panting for company, I am suddenly aware of applause and shouts of encouragement.
Looking up in surprise, I see my fellow cyclists, who have already reached the top of this monstrous mountain (OK, it’s a hill, but it’s taken on Everest-like proportions for me) standing by the road, cheering me on for the final stretch.
It’s a heart-warming touch that makes the climax of a winding seven-mile, 1,400-foot climb on the Croatian island of Hvar all the sweeter — especially when I take in the magnificent views.
Even better is a sprint down the other side. ‘It’s not a race,’ calls our bike guide Vania as we race like demons, enjoying this exhilarating ride to the chi-chi harbor town, also called Hvar, to rejoin our three-masted motor yacht Princess Diana.
Sara Macefield embarks on a one-week cycling cruise around Croatia’s Dalmatian islands on the three-masted motor yacht Princess Diana (above).
We are halfway through a week-long cycling cruise through the incredibly beautiful Dalmatian islands, scattered like precious emeralds in the Adriatic Sea.
There are 32 of us, mostly North Americans, a handful of Australians and about eight Brits — most in our 50s and 60s. What binds us is our enthusiasm and experience of cycling. This is not a trip for beginners.
Princess Diana is a cozy retreat with 16 traditionally furnished staterooms (ours has bunk beds and a double, plus an impressively spacious en-suite shower room), plenty of sunbathing space and a hot tub with bubbling bubbles — just the place to soothe aching muscles.
Communal tables in the dining lounge and bar add to the camaraderie of the trip as we gather for a decent breakfast of fresh fruit, eggs and cheese, plus three-course set lunches, where the choice (delicious soups, grilled fish and pasta) and the standard are more variable. .
The drive to the chi-chi harbor town of Hvar (above) is ‘exciting’, reveals Sara
The Princess Diana, above, is a ‘comfortable retreat’ with 16 traditionally furnished cabins
Our itinerary — one of four offered by Sail Croatia, which includes different levels of difficulty — is the toughest thanks to gravity-defying hills and daily rides of up to 30 miles.
No wonder half the group opts for e-bikes, even though I’m against it. Still, it’s something I occasionally regret, especially during teeth-grinding climbs when e-bikers glide effortlessly past, relaxed and barely breaking a sweat.
But not everything is in the hardcore hills. There are magnificent meanders along deserted coastal roads that open up incredible panoramas, and forays into the interior along country lanes through vineyards full of grapes.
The sleepy villages we pass are great places to stop for a coffee, their honey stone houses with distinctive ocher roofs hinting at their Venetian heritage.
One of the most relaxing morning drives is on Mljet, the most forested Croatian island, which is protected by a national park on its western side.
Sara says that one of the most “relaxing” bike rides of the trip was on the wooded island of Mljet, above
While on Mljet (above), some of Sara’s cruise companions decided to take a dip in the Adriatic aquamarine water
As we follow the empty tracks, Vania shows us a former Benedictine monastery from the 12th century on the tiny island of St Mary. Parts of the Romanesque complex and its church are open throughout the year. There is also a cafe.
It is reached by a free boat that gathers people at the docking point after waving a hand-placed flag.
We then drive over a beautiful humpbacked bridge, built to replace the one that President Tito, the ruler of the former Yugoslavia (of which Croatia was a part of), tore down so he could sail his yacht. We go out on our bikes once, if not twice a day, although it is not mandatory. Some choose instead to go for walks or swim in the Adriatic Sea.
Above is the former Benedictine monastery from the 12th century on the tiny island of St Mary
Sara trades her bike for an e-bike to tour the charming island of Korčula. Above is the island town of Korčula
Sara flies around the hills of Korčula (above) ‘like a bird’ thanks to her e-bike
With daytime temperatures hovering around 20°C and a combination of sunshine and showers, conditions are perfect most days.
Since the cruise is half-board, we jump ashore each evening armed with our guide Nina’s recommendations for the best places to dine. We are also looking for foreign exchanges, as Princess Diana runs a cash only system.
Arriving on the charming island of Korcula, my body still aches from the killer hill the day before, and my legs feel like lead weights. I can’t face getting back in the saddle, so talk the e-biker into swapping for today.
It proves to be an inspired move, as this motorbike propels me forward and I fly up the hills like a bird, feeling a little guilty as I pass my bloated companions.
I can’t help but think I’m cheating, but I really don’t care. As the saying goes: if you can’t beat ’em, join ’em.