Ultramarine debuts the Beluga, a rugged diving watch made entirely in Switzerland
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When Lionel Bruneau told people he wanted to make fully Swiss made watches at reasonable prices, most laughed at him. He was told it was not possible, not to waste his time. However, Bruneau was undeterred. On the contrary – he was busy. Facing the naysayers, he pushed ahead and founded in 2018 Ultramarine Watches. But he didn’t just want to make Swiss watches, he wanted to make a difference: Channeling his love for the world’s oceans, Bruneau donated 10% of his net profits to NGOs working to benefit and preserve marine ecosystems. Given its love of water and the life that abounds in it, it’s surprising that we’re only just getting our hands on an Ultramarine dive watch. Of course, Bruneau started with the sporty GMT, the Morse, with its second time zone indicated by a sub-dial, and followed with the equally sporty three-hand Albatross. Now the brand has delivered a watch more closely linked to its goals: the Ultramarine Beluga, a strikingly modern diver’s watch that continues the brand’s commitment to both Swiss manufacturing and the preservation of marine habitats and their rich life.
The Ultramarine Beluga dial strikes the perfect balance of legibility and design. Oversized applied indexes, including Arabic numerals at the cardinal hours, are painted with Super-LumiNova BGW9 for exceptional low-light readability. The bold handset features a brushed finish with matching lume and a two-part design, with the hands perfectly matching the dial. At 12 o’clock is the Ultramarine Albatross logo, while the model and other text are pad-printed above 6 o’clock. Perhaps the most important element of the dial is the small text at the very edge at 6 o’clock. Instead of the traditional “Swiss Made”, the watch is printed with “IOES”, which stands for “Intégralement Ouvré en Suisse” or “Fully Manufactured in Switzerland”. One of the key commitments Bruneau has made to Ultramarine is to abandon the outsourcing practice that is common even among the most prestigious brands, and instead to produce watches that are entirely and transparently made in Switzerland. It was crucial for Bruneau to exceed the 60% derived value requirement for the Swiss Made label and offer watches that were truly 100% Swiss made.
The Ultramarine Beluga presents an elegant 40mm case with a mix of polished and satin finishes. The polished case sides give way to distinctive satin crown guards that emerge organically to protect the branded screw-down crown, which features deep ridges for excellent grip and functionality. The watch bezel features similarly deep grooves that facilitate operation through each of the 60 clicks with the tension set for a satisfying and secure experience. The domed sapphire bezel adds a bit of flair to the watch and is fitted with Super-LumiNova BGW9 to match the lume on the dial. Apart from the case center, the rest of the case is fully brushed. The lugs feature a gentle curve with bold ends that add to the modernity of the design. At a reasonable 13.5mm thick and a modest 47.9mm from lug to lug, this watch is sure to wear well on your wrist – and you can wear it anywhere, as the watch boasts an impressive 300m water resistance rating. Wearing comfort is further enhanced by a comfortable, custom-made rubber strap with a branded pin buckle, although the watch can be upgraded with an optional hand-stitched leather strap. To make changing easier, all harnesses have quick-release spring bars.
While Ultramarine opted for the Eterna caliber 39 for its first two watches, it turned to Kenissi for the Beluga. A joint venture between Tudor, Chanel and Breitling, Kenissi also produces movements for a number of the world’s top watch brands alongside these brands – and now you can count Ultramarine among them. Under the screwed case back (decorated with two playful beluga whales) is the Kenissi 5402-01. True to the brand’s promise, this exceptional movement is entirely made in Switzerland and has a power reserve of 70 hours at 28,800 vibrations per hour. The automatic movement is COSC chronometer-certified and has 27 jewels. The Kenissi 5402-01 is a robust and reliable movement that ensures the precise timekeeping of the Beluga in every situation.
In addition to the three standard production models, a fourth heavily limited model is being manufactured in partnership with marine conservation NGO Sea Shepherd, an international non-profit marine conservation organization involved in direct action campaigns to protect wildlife and conserve and protect the world’s oceans from illegal exploitation and environmental degradation. With their shared passion for marine conservation, the partnership was a natural fit and serves to advance Ultramarine’s commitment to Earth’s marine ecosystems. The Ultramarine Beluga LE Sea Shepherd shares the overall design of the black dial Beluga, but the text at 6 o’clock is replaced with the Sea Shepherd logo of a skull and crossbones with a shepherd’s staff crossing a trident. The logo is also embossed on the caseback in more detail, featuring a circling dolphin and whale on the skull and a fish on the trident. The model comes on a special recycled NATO strap, exclusive to the Limited Edition. Limited to just 100 pieces, Ultramarine invests a substantial €800 from each sale to support Sea Shepherd’s mission.
Ultramarine took its time developing its first diving watch. When a watch aligns so clearly with a brand’s identity – even its name – things mustn’t be rushed. The time and care that went into the Ultramarine Beluga is evident in its ideal proportions, balanced design and chronometer movement. But the Beluga is more than the sum of its parts, and the total package offers a desirable dive watch that’s ready for any adventure, with the added bonus of supporting our planet’s beautiful oceans. The price of the Ultramarine Beluga is included €3,250 for all models, whereby the LE Sea Shepherd is limited to 100 pieces. For all models, buyers can choose their serial number based on availability, with delivery slated for the second half of 2023 for those who buy by the end of February. For more information, please visit the brand’s website.
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