Sweden travel guide: Everything you need to know
The land of the midnight sun and the northern lights, with achingly hip cities and true wilderness grazed by reindeer, Sweden really is as fantastic, spacious and stylish as you imagine.
There’s plenty of room to breathe – at almost 1,000 miles long, covered in forest and home to 25 national parks and 267,000 islands, Sweden’s wild places are where you can join the locals and hike forest trails and celebrate the summer solstice, pick berries and go island hopping in the fall and ski across frozen lakes in the winter (or even be really brave and take a dip in an ice hole, followed by a hot sauna).
Sweden’s cities, on the other hand, offer their own brand of Scandi cool – they’re style-conscious, sustainable and home to modern eco-hotels, medieval quarters, renowned design brands and the last word in Nordic cuisine.
Current travel restrictions and entry requirements
There are no current Covid-19-related requirements for testing or self-isolation when entering Sweden, and masks are generally not required in public. The Public Health Agency recommends that anyone who develops symptoms of Covid-19 while in the country stay at home and avoid close contact with others.
Best time to go
Sweden’s wild spaces and vibrant cities are rewarding to visit whatever the season, from taking part in foodie festivities around the summer solstice to looking up at the mesmerizing northern lights in winter. In May and September, the temperature is similar to that of the UK, and long hours of daylight culminate in the lively outdoor parties of midsummer. Summer and autumn are the perfect seasons for hiking, city exploration and island hopping. December to March is the best time to spot the Northern Lights (but avoid Lapland at Christmas, when it’s crowded and prices can skyrocket) or to hit the slopes at one of Sweden’s 100 ski resorts (except the last week of February, Swedish half term ).
Top regions and cities
Stockholm
Photogenic, inviting, exciting – Sweden’s capital feels like a collection of different cities rolled into one, perhaps because it was built over 14 separate islands, each with its own personality, on the shores of the Baltic Sea. Expect all the ingredients of the Scandinavian Good Life wherever you choose to explore in the city – art galleries and design museums not to mention Scandinavia’s boutiques, sustainable restaurants and lively nightlife.
Gamla Stan (Old Town) is the depressingly beautiful but tourist-filled old part of town. Vasastan has a tempting list of indie restaurants to choose from, and Djurgården is the city’s park-filled green lung.
The hip head to Södermalm, regularly voted one of the coolest neighborhoods in the world and packed with cafes, venues and the kind of shops and brands that have made Sweden world famous as a design hub. Stroll along the water here to visit the Swedish photographic museum Fotografiska.
When you need an escape from the capital’s crowds, head to one of the 30,000 islands in the Stockholm archipelago to explore peaceful island villages and swim wildly at sandy beaches.
Gothenburg and the Gothenburg archipelago
Meet Sweden’s sustainability-oriented and second largest city, perched on the west coast and home, say the Swedes, to the country’s friendliest people. 2021 was Gothenburg named the world’s most sustainable city for the fourth time in a row, and it’s easy to plan a relaxed, car-free break here, exploring by bike, tram or even electric boat.
Gothenburg is a smorgasbord of canals, bridges, attractive parks, a huge botanical garden and modern public saunas, and Stockholm’s cool little sister is also a hub for thrift and vintage clothing, arguably the most fun way to shop sustainably.
Gothenburg, just like Stockholm, has its own archipelago with 20 islands to explore – the car-free southern archipelago and the longer wasted but rewardingly beautiful northern islands. Head to Hönö to go on a seal safari, Asperö for sea bathing and Grötö for proper peace and quiet.
Lapland
Sweden’s northern territory conjures up images of skiing across the frozen tundra under the northern lights in winter, or berry picking and reindeer watching in the glow of the midnight sun in summer – and Lapland is just as spectacular as you can imagine. This is a true wilderness, home to moose and bear, wide rivers and banks of pristine forest, all criss-crossed by hiking trails and dotted with traditional Sami (the indigenous people of northern Sweden, Norway, Finland and Russia) settlements.
Kiruna, Sweden’s northernmost city (and home to Sweden’s world-famous Icehotel in nearby Jukkasjärvi) is an excellent base for exploring the region’s national parks as well as for husky sledding, reindeer safaris and snowmobile adventures.
The best destinations under the radar
Jokkmokk’s market
The most spectacular market you’ve never heard of has been around for 400 years. In the first week of February, around 30,000 Sami and other visitors flock to the snow-covered streets of Jokkmokks in Swedish Lapland for the Sami Winter Market to buy and sell traditional goods, socialize after a long winter, listen to “Joik” songs – one of the oldest folk music forms in Europe – and see the reindeer running across the frozen surface of Lake Talvatisjön.
Södermanland (Sörmland)
A short trip from bustling Stockholm, this beautiful, laid-back province is home to small islands, tranquil lakes and postcard-perfect towns, perfect for escaping to after a few days sightseeing in Sweden’s capital. Sörmland has long been a favorite escape among Swedes – there are over 400 castles and manors scattered through the region that was once a gentlemen’s retreat. The canal and cafe-packed town of Trosa is the best base and from here hikers can tackle part of the Sörmlandsleden, one of Scandinavia’s longest hiking trails.
The Koster Islands
One of Sweden’s best kept secrets, this 450 square kilometer national park is an archipelago of green islands, sandy beaches and wild moors. The two main car-free islands, South Koster and North Koster, both have permanent residents and a plethora of galleries, hotels, campsites and craft shops, and are linked by a chain ferry. The area around the reserve is one of the most biologically diverse in Sweden, home to 12,000 different species – bring a snorkel to explore the crystal clear waters of Kosterhavet, Sweden’s only marine national park. A haven for kayakers, wild swimmers, hikers and lovers of the simple life.
Best things to do
Pop out for coffee
One of Sweden’s most cherished customs is the ritual of coffee – coffee and cake. So popular that it is both a noun and a verb, coffee is more than just an afternoon treat – it’s a daily social occasion that combines Sweden’s café culture with its love of traditional cinnamon buns (cinnamon roll). Deciding which bakery serves the very best bun is half the fun (Bakery Petrus in Stockholm has repeatedly been voted the best in the Swedish capital, while Café Husaren in Gothenburg makes a fantastic vegan version).
Hike the King’s Path
The adventurous should put on their hiking boots (and pack plenty of bug spray) to tackle part of the Kungsleden, a 440km trail that stretches between Abisko and Hemavan in Swedish Lapland. This is true wilderness, passing through four national parks with birch forest and tundra grazed by reindeer and in the shadow of Kebnekaise (Sweden’s highest mountain, at 2,099 meters). You can challenge it by wild camping along the trail, or plan your hike around the 16 attractive STF huts (some complete with wood-burning saunas) that make simple but convenient stops along the way.
Visit Vasa
The impressive Vasa is a matter of national pride in Sweden. An intricately carved warship built in the 17th century, she unceremoniously sank on her maiden voyage, but was rescued from the depths three centuries later and has been painstakingly restored to her original, artful glory. Visit her at the Vasa Museum in Stockholm.
Celebrate Midsummer
Midsummer (celebrated on the weekend that falls between June 20 and 26) is a joyful highlight in the Swedes’ summer calendar, when the solstice is toasted with outdoor parties all over the country. Midsummer is all about partying – traditional fare includes pickled herring and strawberries, all washed down with potent aquavit spirit. If you’re looking for the full midsummer experience, head to Dalarna, where locals dress up in traditional folk costumes, parade with flower garlands and dance around a maypole on Siljan’s beach. Gothenburg and the Bohuslän coast are other solstice hotspots.
Look up at the northern lights
The Aurora Borealis comes alive in dancing streaks of green, pink and purple in the night sky above northern Sweden in September every year. The best time to see the show is January, when low temperatures produce the most spectacular displays, but the lights are often visible well into March in Lapland. The Sami – Sweden’s indigenous people – believed that the lights were the souls of the dead, while the Vikings believed that the northern lights were the Valkyries who took fallen soldiers to meet Odin, the god of war.
Skiing
Grab your glasses – Sweden has 100 ski resorts, ranging from Are in Jämtland-Härjedalen, which offers black slopes and off-piste skiing and The seal, Dalarna, northern Europe’s largest ski resort, to small mom-and-pop resorts with just a few runs each. Some resorts are close enough to Stockholm and Gothenburg that you can visit them for a snow sports day in the middle of the city.
Get around
Sweden is a big old country, but it is blessed with an extensive and efficient public transport system. Besides flying from southern Sweden up to Lapland (1.30 hours), the reliable train service (https://www.sj.se/en/) is usually the best option for short and long trips. You can also travel all the way from Stockholm up to Kiruna, well within the Arctic Circle, with the Arctic Sleeper night train.
Sweden’s beautiful archipelagos are well served by car and foot ferries that often link up with bus and train timetables on the mainland, so island hopping is easy. Bicycles are widely available for hire in Sweden, perfect for exploring both city streets and car-free islands.
How to get there
Most durable
The new EuroNight train service (launched in September 2022) is powered by renewable energy and takes passengers from Stockholm to Hamburg in Germany, where it connects to existing Eurostar services, reducing the train time between Stockholm and London to around one day.
Fastest
Flight from London to Stockholm in 2.30 hours. Arlanda Airport, just north of Stockholm, is the country’s largest hub and the gateway for most international travelers, while Landvetter Airport is the gateway to Gothenburg. You can fly directly to both Stockholm and Gothenburg with SAS, British Airways, Ryanair and easyJet. Skåne and Malmö are easily accessible via Copenhagen in Denmark, and during the winter easyJet flies direct from London Gatwick to Åre Östersund Airport in Jämtland, on the Lapland border.
Save money tips
Sweden has lots of things to shout about – but bargain prices are usually not one of them. To save on expensive accommodation, stay in simple but comfortable hostels and cabins run by the Swedish Tourist Association (STF, https://www.swedishtouristassociation.com/) – there are 350 hostels, hotels, cabins and mountain stations scattered all over the country. with affordable options available everywhere from big cities to rural backwoods or even right under the Northern Lights.
common questions
How is the weather in Sweden?
Varying! The winter and summer differences can be extreme, even though Sweden generally has a temperate climate. Summers in the south are pleasantly mild, while north of the Arctic Circle you should expect severe cold (temperatures sometimes reach -30C) and a blanket of snow in winter.
What time zone is Sweden in?
Sweden is in Central European Time (GMT+1).
What currency do I need?
Sweden’s currency is Swedish kronor, and the card is king – you rarely need to carry cash, even in remote locations.
What language is spoken?
Swedish (Swedish) is Sweden’s national language, with five official minority languages also spoken: Sami, Finnish, Meankieli (Tornedal Finnish), Yiddish and Romani Chib. Many Swedes speak fantastic English, and travel signs and notices are also often in English.