Monaco: a Creole party atmosphere at the Blue Bay | Gilles Pudlowski’s blog
Two stars for the Creole cuisine of Marcel Ravin: we told you about the reopening of the MC Bay table, the day after the coronation in Cognac of the chef of the Blue Bay. From the start, we follow this highly talented chef who has become the best defender of the flavors of his island and of the French West Indies in a luxurious and magical place, anchored like a kind of hotel pearl near the Rock.
Its tasting menu, which has become the Agoulou (in other words, Marcel’s “snack”), allows you to get around the question. With a serious team, including the faithful Jean-Pascal Bodevier, former Crillon Constant era then Bruno Oger at La Villa des Lys at the Majestic in Cannes, who watches over the pass and the grain when Marcel Ravin travels, the score is effective as music paper. A team mixes applied products and flavors from elsewhere with those from here, mixing those from the hinterland of Nice and fish and shellfish from the Riviera with those from Guadeloupe and Martinique.
Ideas for a menu right here? The “madou” in battery syrup and its decoction of aromatic leaves, with the mshiso ousseline, coconut curry, parsnip, pumpkin, ground pistachio, plus smoked sweet potato “candy” with spices and eggnog with duck foie gras, vanilla and mint geranium as very pretty gourmet canapés.
Next ? The yam quenelle, gamberoni, oscietra caviar, head juice with shiso from the gardens, plus the crab tartare with lemony vegetable caviar, the now classic – here! – Monte Carlo egg with cassava, truffles and maracuja or the “souskai” (marinade) with wasabino from Antipodes, with its Tassergat bottarga. There is also the “migan” from christophine, in other words a lobster with black garlic and race herbs.
We still praise the “morning after bread” saucer in its signature Maridja oil. But we can’t overlook the piglet in two courses, with its pâté in a pot, its ravioli of foie gras, its “scorched” with porcini mushrooms. Exquisite things to ponder, compare, savor gently…
And we keep a nice place for the desserts of the passionate and gifted Floriane Grand, formerly of Fauchon, K2 in Courchevel, the Reserve of Beaulieu and Belle Rive, who seduces with her “tthird kings” with chocolate, figs from “our gardens” with arranged rum, its red “gommier” with the scent of spices, with raspberries, beets, amaranths and its splendid mnonsense.
A dinner at the BB? Definitely a gourmet party in the colors of the islands…