12 Reasons A Visit To Rabat, Gozo Will Transport You To 1950s Italy
It was warm for early autumn. Walking down busy Victoria Street was more of an uphill climb than I expected. Then I saw the steep stone steps leading to the Citadel, my destination, I needed a break before taking on the challenge.
I turned and saw I-Indipendenza Square, Independence Square, a beautiful square with the shade of trees. Small tables with metal chairs of various styles were dotted around, some with two or three people talking and enjoying food and drink. I was inside.
Crossing the crazy, busy, narrow road was heartbreaking. Scooters, bicycles, buses, cars, and trucks wizzed by. I made the crossing and found a small table. A server quickly took my order for tea and pastries. After looking around, I started thinking about Italy in the movies of the 1950s. Then it hit me, the square could have been used in one of those movies, just the way it looked.
Victoria: The Capital Of Gozo
Rabat (also called Victoria) is home to approximately 7,000 citizens, making it the largest city and the capital of Gozo. The roads run, twist, and turn. The ancient churches and chapels dot neighborhoods. Sandstone villas with painted balconies, flower boxes, and laundry hanging to dry in the Mediterranean breeze will welcome you. You will find narrow passages leading to small open squares lined with cafes and shops. Sometimes a door opens, and you glimpse a lush central courtyard, or come across a small garden with a gurgling fountain.
As you walk around and explore the city of Victoria, you can feel like you are in another era. The sidewalk cafes, street markets, and majestic churches have been here for centuries. Pizza in the street stalls, Italian influenced food in every food, language with strong Italian roots, and shops closing for an afternoon siesta will transport you to the Italy of the 1950s.
The Roads of Victoria
1. Independence Square
Make your first stop at Pjazza Indipendenza tar Rabat. Located in the center of Victoria, Pjazza Indipendenza is the best site in town for people watching.
Take a drink break. Around the shady square are cafes, shops, and a street market. Walk into one of the surrounding cafes, order, and pay. A server will bring it to the square. Enjoy your refreshment and immerse yourself in Victoria.
2. Street Market
Sitting in Piazza Indipendenza, you will likely see vendors in front of shops. But, they are only the tip of the “street market” iceberg. Lining the narrow, car-free streets, you’ll find vendors selling colorful goods, produce, cheese, wine, clothes, and souvenirs of Gozo. In this area there are also permanent shops and restaurants.
Pro tip: A beautiful souvenir of Gozo is a Maltese Cross in silver. While wandering around the street market, you will see a lot.
3. Lunch in Saint George Square
One of my favorite things to do in Victoria is a long lazy lunch in St George’s Square. Located to the south of Piazza Indipendenza, Piazza St. George is the front yard of the Basilica of St. George.
Several sidewalk cafes surround the idyllic little square, lined with shops. I had something in each of these alfresco eateries; they were all delicious Maltese cuisine, with friendly service and a comfortable environment.
Pro tip: Choose a seat under the canopy in summer to avoid the Mediterranean summer sun.
4. Basilica of Saint George
Basilica of St. George it was established before 1450. Today, the magnificent medieval church is called the “Marble Basilica” because the interior is covered with marble. There are several paintings and statues depicting Saint George. The most popular is a statue of the patron saint, Saint George. The wooden sculpture was created by Paulu Azzopardi in 1838.
5. The Hagar Museum
The Hagar, the Museum and Cultural Center of the Heart of Gozo, is a new relative that reveals the ancient history of Malta. This beautiful museum illuminates “the Gozitan heritage and the Christian culture that make up this island community.” This very modern looking facility is located in an old building. The exhibits are creative, informative, and beautiful. Entry is free to this little gem on the left side of the basilica, just off St George’s Square.
6. Rundle Villa Garden
Recently refurbished, Villa Rundle Gardens offers outdoor space for families to enjoy. Beautiful gardens and trees make this a lovely spot for a picnic or daydreaming session. You’ll find this shady oasis and visitor center 3 minutes west of the bus terminal.
The Citadel
Standing at the bottom of the Citadel is breathtaking. The honey colored stone walls rise hundreds of feet above Victoria. These walls show their history. Stones inscribed by the Romans, hospitals and prisons built by the Knights, houses and gardens built by Gozations, war wounds from WWII bombings. The Citadel has been a place of refuge for centuries when invaders attacked.
Today it is an archaeological wonder with much to offer the visitor interested in Maltese culture and history. These are five of my favorites.
7. Visitor Center
Follow the signs to the Visitor Center how to walk on the hill from Victoria. The €5 entrance fee also allows entry to the Gozo Archeology Museum, the Nature Museum, the Old Prisons, and the Gran Castello Historical House — a very nice little bargain.
8. Cathedral of Gozo
Gozo Cathedral is a baroque building built at the end of the 1600s. Beautifully appointed inside and out, many people come to see the trompe l’oeil dome. It is such a masterpiece; you will find it hard to believe that the ceiling is flat. You can either climb the stairs or use the accessible ramps.
9. Museum of Nature
visit the Gozo Nature Museum g[al ]look at that[seb lejn ir-ri]natural bears of G[awdex u kif intu]aw from G[awdex matul i]-]while. It revolves around 35 million years of the natural world on Gozo.
10. Old Prison
the The Old Prison it was built by the Knights of St. John to keep their members when they broke the rules of the order. The prison was used from the middle of the 16th century to the beginning of the 20th. For centuries, prisoners used the walls of the cell as a canvas on which to cut. Many are still visible.
11. Historic House Gran Castello
the Historic House Gran Castello (Gozo’s Folk Museum) is my favorite Citadel destination. Here you can see the Sicilian and Catalan influences on Gozo. This house is actually a warren of several houses that are interconnected.
The exhibits are authentic to life three centuries ago. There is an impressive granary on a lower level. Many stairs and narrow passageways lead to bedrooms, chapels, dining halls, kitchens, and even a guard room. Many household craft tools are displayed.
A Scenic Walk
12. Walk To The Seaside
Isn’t there always a seaside scene in romantic Italian movies? The waterfront is a short easy walk from Victoria. Along the way you will find villages, chapels, churches, shops, kiosks, food, places to swim, and salt pans.
One of my favorites is the Salt Pans Walk. Starting and ending in Victoria, you’ll loop from the Citadel to the coast and back. For more details, review this guidance.
Getting There
Air
First, you have to get to Malta. Hundreds of cities around the world have non-stop flights to Malta International Airport (MLA). Unfortunately, there are no direct flights from any US cities. I had transfers from the west coast of the United States to London, Frankfurt, and Zurich. I have traveled on Virgin Air (my favourite), British Air (a close to 2n.d), Air Malta, Lufthansa, and Swiss Air.
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I don’t recommend taking a car. Both Malta and Gozo are small and easy to get around. Public transport is excellent and very reasonable. Leave the driving to someone else and enjoy the scenery. Both buses and taxis are available at the airport. go to the taxi cab in the Welkers Hall. There you can pay for your fare based on your destination. You will be given a voucher to use with certified drivers just outside the door. If you choose a bus, the taxi cab can also help you.
Ferries
When you are ready to go to Gozo, take a ferry. Gozo Channel Ferry sails to Gozo from Cirkewwa in the north of Malta. The ferry runs 24 hours a day. There is a snack kiosk on board. The standard foot passenger fare for the 20 minute crossing is €4.05 return.
Gozo Fast Ferry and Virtu Ferries Gozo set sail for Gozo from the City. Both are high speed boats that make the trip in about 45 minutes. On board, you have comfortable seating and Wi-Fi. At the kiosk, sandwiches, snacks, beer and wine are for sale, in addition to coffee, tea and soft drinks. Fares vary from €4 to €12 one way. The last ferry is at 9 pm
A bus
The Imgarr Port Ferry Terminal is also a bus terminal with buses to all parts of Gozo. In addition, several buses go directly to Rabat, another bus terminal. The fare without discount is €2.50.
Pro tip: Upload a Tallinja card and load the Align App for your smartphone. You can buy the cards at the ferry and Victoria bus terminals. Then, use your debit or credit card in the white and green machine to top up your card. The bus fare is lower when you use your Tallinja card.
Why Victoria?
You can’t help but feel like you’re walking back in time a few decades when you walk through Victoria. Also, the influence from Italy — only 60 miles away — is strong. People are more relaxed, and life is a little easier. It is the Med, after all.
To learn more about Gozo, go to Visit Gozo. For more about Malta in general, see these articles: