Cruise guide: Exploring Malta by submarine
Malta cannot be considered a Mediterranean hot spot, but its rich scenery of historical significance has left shipwrecks, culinary delicacies and diverse culture that should not be overlooked. BOAT heads under the surface to find out more …
As the submarine hatch closes above me, the flood worries my mind. Do I feel claustrophobic? Want to explore the depths of Malta? Will I ever see the light of day again? I’m a little embarrassed to admit that I’m anxious as I sit in a bright yellow Triton submarine in the Cave Under the Bunch, off Comino Island, waiting to descend into the rubble. under it. I’m here to find out why a submarine is the ultimate superyacht accessory, but I’m fully focused on trying not to let my face show how scared I am.
Credit: Cookson Adventures & U Boat Navigator
Clear waters on a lap against the perfectly spherical hull rise slowly as the submarine begins its decent towards the ocean floor. I look up at the surface of the cerulean, and realize that my apprehension has miraculously disappeared. We are weightless and not uncontrollably; feel stable and comforting as the surface lifts away. The gentle sound of the whirling thrusters is all there is to hear as I sink into the water so brightly that it reflects on my skin. From here, there seems to be nothing to separate us from the water as the dome is now virtually invisible; my claustrophobic anxieties now feel like a silly misunderstanding of what it is like to dive into a submarine as I look out of the crystal clear abyss and see a wreck being focused.
Few places in the world can provide such a perfect environment to explore under the surface of the Maltese gin-clear archipelago. The stream of foreign influence due to the succession of powers that ruled the islands imprinted and merged with the ancient culture of the country, leaving not only a beguiling cocktail of historical sites on land, but a thrilling agglomeration of relitt. From the Middle Ages, Malta had periods of Arab rule, Sicilian rule from the Norman conquest, Hospitaller rule, French occupation until it finally became part of the British Empire in the early 19th century, where Malta played an integral role in both wars. worldwide. A hint of English heritage in the form of red mailboxes, old Morris Miners and even the full English breakfast can still be seen on the floor, despite Malta becoming independent in 1964.
The Maltese minesweeper’s rust hull P31 that I find myself wandering alongside also has a multicultural background. Built in Germany, it was sold to the Maltese government in 1992 and was involved in border operations – including the rescue of 251 immigrants – before being deliberately spent in 2009. each other from the depths. Our situation is completely opposite as I take the wreck out of the comfort of the cushioned seats of the custom Triton submarines, talking to Dmitry Tomashov, my pilot for the trip. It is also an integral part of the U-Boat Navigator – one of the most sophisticated diving support vessels in the world sailing 35 meters above us.
Lukas Bischoff via Getty Images
“Exploring the world in a private submarine is as close as possible to traveling to another planet,” says Henry Cookson, founder of Cookson Adventures back on board. U-Boat Navigator. “Today’s technologies allow guests of all ages to spend unique moments beneath the ocean’s surface and have a real opportunity to discover what no human has ever seen before.”
With the sun beating down and passing over the cushioning sea surface. the conditions are ideal, but this is not a requirement when it comes to submarines of this caliber. Cookson Adventures was the first private travel company to launch an Antarctic submarine in 2012 to explore the megafauna under the waves at sites they had never dived before. “There’s a surprising amount of wildlife thriving in its deep ice, from otherworldly jellyfish and invertebrates that are rarely seen to penguins and seals,” recalls Cookson, confirming that Antarctica is his favorite expedition. of all time.
From U-Boat Navigatorwe take an offer back to 41-meters Lady in Blue, part of CarBlu Malta’s fleet, as the crew begins to put on the table a range of colorful lemon salads, pepper-preserved meat and fresh fish sprinkled with capers. This is a satisfying, but strategically light meal, as we have reservations in the evening at Malta’s newest Michelin-starred restaurant, ION – The Harbor.
Making our way to the rooftop of the Iniala hotel, the elevator doors open to open a stylish, yet informal affair, overlooking the Grand Harbor. The Baroque limestone architecture of Valletta is painted in a flammable orange shade as the sun sets on the horizon of the 16th century. Negroni in his hands, it’s easy to see why Mark Weingard, the owner of Iniala and ION – The Harbor, chose such a mesmerizing place for the newly completed property and as we sit down, it is also clear why English chef Alex Dilling was chosen to pioneer her restaurant.
Iniala Harbor House & Residences | Justin de Souza
Like a carefully tried play, the first piece of the seven-course tasting menu arrives on the table. Discs of local baby pink shrimp coated with aged schrenkii caviar and crème cru set the tone for the rest of the meal. Then come two foie gras domes with black truffle vinaigrette, followed by the creation of the chef’s signature, the hunter’s complex chicken. Each course is more impressive than the last and it’s no surprise that the restaurant was awarded its Michelin star shortly after it opened.
Initial Harbor House & Residences / Justin de Souza
Superyachts that stop in Malta will find a wealth of culinary delicacies scattered around the island. We move to the west coast and welcome the anchor off Għajn Tuffieħa beach for a more rustic but no less decadent experience in Mġarr. After going up the hill I am led through a jungle of flowering bushes, hanging pomegranates and half-buried hydrangeas. Eventually I arrive at a single table on a terraced terrace overlooking the converging edges of the Spring Olive grove.
The grove is part of Merill, an initiative that brings together farmers and artisans from all over the Maltese Islands. Golden Tan-Nixxiegħa extra virgin olive oil is brought to the table, along with homemade breadcrumbs, and a range of local Maltese delicacies, including Maltese Sausage – raw edible pork sausage. The hours are wasted enjoying a crisp local Girgentina wine, while taking in the charming view, which triggers a great sense of full immersion in Maltese culture, which is how the Cookson Adventures team designs their expeditions.
“From pirates to the Knights of Malta, the island has long attracted people with a sense of adventure and that spirit lives on in the local people you meet,” says Cookson. “Meeting such local winemakers, chefs and farmers who are passionate about working in harmony with the land to create world class products is a great way to be an example of Malta’s culture. “
Cookson Adventures can be well known in the world of superyacht, but they do not just arrange water-based activities. As this trip shows, each of the excursions can be mixed with a series of exciting land-based escapes, which is how I find myself sitting on a quad bike, running on the neighboring island of Gozo. Our route takes us through a series of sandy limestone settlements on the Maltese archipelago, following the exquisite, Iglesia de Gharb, to the site of the Azur Window, a 28-meter natural arch that was visible. Game of Thronesbefore its spectacular collapse in 2017.
Credit: alex_ugalek via Getty Images
We take regular stops, and leave our quadbikes to take the commanding view over the jagged cliff face; softened by ice cold water and Maltese pastries. Eventually we arrive in Żebbuġ, a town in the northernmost part of Gozo famous for its salt mines. Over a distance of three kilometers, partially submerged rectangular basins were carved into the rocks, waiting for the water to evaporate and for Gozo’s famous sea salt to form. Priced around the world for its taste and texture, salt is an important source of income for the island and local families who have been reaping it for centuries.
Credit: venuestock via Getty Images
The Maltese heritage is literally engraved in the ground around the archipelago, and it is as we sit on the terrace of the Malta Maritime Museum for a private meal with Liam Gauci, the director and historian of the museum, that we discover how these cultures merged. We try a number of ancient flavors inspired by 18th century Malta, from pigeons fried in a rich red wine jug to roasted oysters, in the same environment where the Inquisitors, Corsairs and Knights once ate themselves looking at the The Grand Harbor. With his seemingly limitless library of historical knowledge, Gauci even links my own ancestors to Malta and highlights his leading role in various battles in the Mediterranean and the importance to Britain in the First and Second World War II.
In the last year, a number of well-known superyachts have visited Maltese waters and the data suggest that traffic is increasing. Now I find myself looking for opportunities to return to this historic landmark and to my considerable surprise, I keep an eye on opportunities to return deep into my yellow submarine. It is clear that Malta is home to some of the most thrilling waters in the Mediterranean, but with its culinary wonders and rich culture on the surface as well, Malta should certainly not be overlooked as a thriving superyacht destination.
Ship to shore: Iniala Harbor House
Iniala Harbor House | Justin de Souza
Hidden among the baroque architecture of Valletta in the prestigious Barbara Bastion street, Iniala Harbor House combines traditional Maltese architecture and historical details with contemporary design and an eclectic art collection. Spread over four townhouses, each of the 22 rooms has its own striking design concept, as do the two-storey “Incognito Suite” gathered on the ground floor with original limestone walls, contemporary furniture and High arched ceilings sit in the hotel’s historic vault. With moody lighting and polished dark wood floors, the atmosphere in the hotel is unpretentious opulence and a home away from home designed to cater for those longer visits to the city. A wide range of Diptyque products line each of the bathrooms, and the crisp sheets that wear king-sized beds are countless thread counts.
Read more/The best luxury hotels in the Mediterranean to visit by superyacht