In the Cartier factory in Switzerland
In addition to the timeless aesthetics and rich legacy of Cartier watches, there is the Maison’s impressive 355,000 square meter manufacturing facility in La Chaux-de-Fonds in the canton of Neuchâtel, Switzerland, where new classic timepieces are created and assembled. As a meeting point of modernity and watchmaking tradition, the Cartier manufactory is one of the largest fully integrated watch production facilities in the country, which we were able to visit at the beginning of April together with Anne-Karelle Hocq, Head of Transformation and Communication at Cartier Horlogerie.
During the tour, Hocq briefly explained the five steps involved in making a Cartier watch. The design or development phase starts with sketches that lead to mock-ups and prototypes. Then comes the conception, where the technical aspect of the watch is worked on, followed by the industrialization. “Here we examine the manufacture of each component and the creation of the tooling required to manufacture them, as well as the assembly of the watch,” she added.
Next comes the actual watch production, then the finished watches undergo a final inspection before being sent to various retail boutiques. Customer service is the other step. “Cartier watches can be serviced for life. While simpler repairs are carried out in the boutique, here we do more complex work such as manufacturing parts for older models that are no longer available.
It can be special sometimes because we’ve received Cartier watches from the 19th century, so it’s like a piece of history is coming to us,” explained Hocq.
The saying Rome was not built in a day applies to all Cartier timepieces. Perfection takes time and the house has around 150 projects going at once, with each new watch taking one to two years to develop depending on the complexity. It was fascinating to see the Ballon Bleu’s many alternate sketches before its final design. Also on display were the different prototypes: 3D printed resin versions and technical versions to see the feasibility of a QuickSwitch bracelet, for example.
Non-working prototypes are sometimes loaned to the marketing department for promotional shoots, and Hocq recalled one in particular: “We loaned a Panthère prototype to a shoot in 2017, but it was returned damaged and filled with water. It wasn’t until we saw Sofia Ford Coppola’s Panthère campaign, in which the model dives into a pool with the watch, that we realized it was used for this shoot. The creation was just an aesthetic prototype, so not waterproof.”
Every new timepiece and its components such as the dial, case, bracelet and sapphire crystal must go through a validation phase. This includes mechanical and chemical tests performed in controlled laboratory environments such as: B. Shock and magnetism resistance, water resistance, climate and even acid tests to simulate the effect of sweat on the watch.
We were ushered into a demonstration room where each watch is subjected to a series of tests, some of which are not for the faint of heart. During the accidental drop test, there was a collective gasp as a watch prototype fell onto a hard surface from a great height. And we winced as a hefty metal ball bearing fell onto a sapphire crystal. “This phase lasts about two months because we want to test everything to ensure quality. The international warranty on a Cartier watch is eight years, so we’re essentially simulating the lifespan of the watch,” Hocq said.
Another fascinating process is the production of mineral crystals. While the tougher, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal used on most classic watches is typically machine-cut, watches with unconventional case shapes like the Cartier Crash or Bagnoire require a handcrafted mineral crystal. In this technique, which combines traditional glassmaking know-how with horological precision, a flat piece of mineral glass is heated to around 500°C under a blue flame. The heat softens the mineral glass and flows into the mold it was placed in. Only a skilled craftsman will know when the desired shape will emerge just by looking at the reflection of a spot of white cast on the crystal during the heating process.
Cartier also masters the art of making watch hands – a component not all the major manufactures we discover make, and with good reason. It’s an intense process of about 20 steps involving about 12 different crafts like hammering, cutting and polishing. Steel hands are oxidized and placed in ovens heated to 350ºC for a set time to obtain the iconic Cartier shade of blue. Each hour, minute and second hand is selected and color matched to ensure a watch has hands of the exact same shade. Hocq sheds light on the origins of the blue hands: “In the past, clocks were not water-resistant and to protect the hands from rust, watchmakers in the 19th century began to oxidize them, which gave the metal this particular colour.”
Products of Cartier’s rigorous design, testing, manufacturing and more processes, these classic timepieces were unveiled to great fanfare this March at Watches and Wonders in Geneva.
PASHA DE CARTIER
Totally contemporary despite its debut in the flamboyant 1980s, the watch for extroverts defies convention with a grid across the dial that reinforces the model’s strong graphic signature. The hand-polished grille is easily removable thanks to a clever system of four tiny clasps and a spring that allows the watch to be worn two ways. The Pasha de Cartier Grille watch is available in an all gold 41mm version, as well as 30mm and 35mm jewelry versions.
Other additions to the collection include the Moonphase, Skeleton and Flying Tourbillon Pasha de Cartier models. A romantic moon phase movement in a midnight blue circle contrasts beautifully with the bold design of the watch.
Equipped with the 1904 LU MC manufacture movement, this model is available in a solid gold or steel version. Caliber 9524MC, a signature movement for the Skeleton watch, emphasizes the watch’s strength along with four oversized Arabic numerals surrounding the square railroad track within the circular dial. Two versions are offered: a limited edition jewel model in white gold with baguette-cut diamonds, and a steel edition with black ADLC for the case and Super-LumiNova for the bridges and hands.
The Flying Tourbillon caliber 9552 MC, with hours and minutes display, is another signature complication of Cartier fine watchmaking, which perfectly complements the aesthetic of a 41mm Pasha de Cartier model in rose gold.
The 33 m Ballon Bleu de Cartier in rose gold with bracelet and diamond-set dial;
The 33m Ballon Bleu de Cartier in rose gold with a diamond-set bezel and dial
BALLOON BLEU DE CARTIER
Launched in 2007, this elegant dress watch with its large, round cabochon crown guard carries the quintessence of Cartier DNA – a clear dial with Roman numerals and railway tracks. The latest 33mm and 36mm self-winding mechanical women’s models feature a chic matt silver-plated embossed sunburst dial with Roman numerals at 12 o’clock and 21 brilliant-cut diamonds. The new editions are presented with a blue or burgundy alligator leather strap or an interchangeable rose gold bracelet and are also available with diamond-set bezels.
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TANK
Two new large Tank Louis Cartier models in yellow gold and rose gold respectively present a red and an anthracite gray dial. Depending on the light and viewing angle of the watch, each dial features an intriguing geometric motif – modeled after a pattern on a 1980s Cartier Must watch – that is rich in shadow and depth. This effect is achieved through an electrochemical engraving technique, a first for the house, which allows for highly precise markings and brings a contemporary aesthetic to the timeless watch.
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Minimalists will love the third version, a yellow gold Tank Louis Carter with a jet black dial, as well as the latest steel Tank Must with an all-black dial. The discreet watch is available in both small and large models.
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PANTHÈRE DE CARTIER
The quintessential Cartier jewel watch now offers four new quartz models in steel, rose gold or yellow gold with colored dials in plum gold, golden brown, midnight blue and black.
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First of all, the brilliance of the subtle, iridescent gradations of the satin-finished dial attracts your attention, lending a jewel-like quality to the ultra-feminine 22mm x 30mm watch, which was first introduced in 1983.
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SANTOS
Honoring the historic model, the Santos Dumont collection introduces three new 43.5mm x 31.4mm versions with lacquer details – a first for the line. Three color and case metal variants are offered: burgundy and platinum (limited edition of 150), beige and rose gold (limited edition of 250), and black and steel. They are first coated with a thin layer of lacquer, then smoothed and polished by hand. The finesse of the translucent lacquer gives the dial colors brilliance, relief and depth.
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Finally, the Santos de Cartier gets a sporty update with a blue PVD bezel paired with a blue or white dial. Measuring 47.5mm x 39.8mm, the steel bracelet creation is an eye-catching piece, especially when worn with the second blue rubber QuickSwitch strap.