Where to stay, eat and what to do
Sweden is more than a country with minimalist design, humane social infrastructure and hot Skårsgårdar. The Scandinavian giant is also known for its miles of misty forests, crystalline lakes and great opportunities for outdoor life, whether it’s hiking, camping or cycling. As gorpcore continues its rise along with a renewed enthusiasm for the outdoors, you’d do well to consider Sweden on your short list of places to truly experience the breadth of what nature has to offer – especially if you hone in on the scenic southern Småland. Home to ABBA, Ikea and more, this iconic part of the country deserves a spot on your summer holiday itinerary. Below you’ll find NYLON’s comprehensive guide to making the most of Sweden’s Småland, from its most unique accommodations, places to eat and, of course, what to do when it comes to getting down and dirty with Mother Nature.
Where they will live
Skip the multitude of B&Bs, chain hotels and AirBnBs, and go with a more eccentric accommodation for your stay like the infamous Hotel Västanå Castle, one of the best-preserved castle yards in the heart of Småland. First built in 1590, the castle is a medieval treasure that feels like a mix of both museum and hotel, clashing its cavernous historic stone interiors with luxurious, modern facilities, such as a fine dining restaurant and a huge adjacent golf course. Enter and be greeted by a framed photo of Paul McCartney and his family, who once lived there – then enjoy a room lavishly decorated with furs and other plush textiles. I personally enjoyed the real copper sink and lion’s claw bathtub in my bathroom – and how it was completely quiet when night fell (although there have been some supernatural sightings).
An equally incomparable experience can be had at the recently opened (and very exclusive) Trakt Skogshotell, which houses only five individually standing suites plopped in the middle of a forest. If you love the outdoors, you’ll appreciate Trakt, whose rooms allow you to sleep under the stars (with only a thin pane of glass separating you from the elements). Its facilities are modern but minimalist, and everything from furniture to food is sourced from farms and artisans. But it’s really Mother Nature who is the star: although it rained for most of my stay there, the clouds parted briefly in the middle of the night to reveal a glittering sky of stars, still the biggest highlight of my trip.
Where to eat
With its rolling hills and miles of verdant land, Småland is a cornucopia of edible delights. One of the most special meals I had was at Asa Herrgård, a sprawling hotel and farm complex located approximately 40 minutes’ drive from the city of Växjö. Here, a few miles past its central station and just inside the belly of a neighboring forest, lies a long wooden table nestled in the moss, which visitors can book to experience DIY fine dining. It’s DIY because you get the joy of foraging for some of the meals’ main ingredients in the surrounding forest, including different kinds of mushrooms, lingonberries, herbs and clover, before bringing them back to the table for a chef, or you, to cook – a completely unique experience. I had a sumptuous plate of golden chanterelle mushrooms sautéed in butter on toast when I was there, but larger, three-course spread are available. Either way, you’ll never look at picnics the same after this.
Those with bougier sensibilities will appreciate PM & Vanner Hotel and its one Michelin star restaurant, which spins local produce and meat into something delicious. For a cheaper but equally good alternative, its bistro transforms elk/moose, veal and other Småland delicacies into delicious dishes.
Finally, if you want to satisfy your sweet tooth, swing by the picturesque lakeside town of Gränna, home to Sweden’s infamous Polkagris sweets. The red and white swirled candy cane stick is said to have been invented here in 1859 by a local widow, Amalia Erikkson, and a statue of her stands in the square today just beyond a number of candy shops, such as The Polka Prince (or “Polka Prince”), who still sizzles out those sweet candies. Today, there are dozens of flavors to chew on besides the traditional peppermint, including one based on Swedish coffee.
What to do
Outdoor activities are king in Småland, and paths, forests and lakes are found almost everywhere. But if you fancy something more unique, head north to see – and hike – Skurugata, an amazing geological phenomenon that is definitely more rare. The 800 meter long gorge is a steep one and takes about an hour to hike. Along the way you get to climb over boulders and admire a bunch of unique species of moss and other leaves (so they say). But if you ask me, it’s the magnificent vantage point that oversees miles of the surrounding nature reserve at the end that makes the trip, enhanced by a hot cup of coffee. If you long for more, Ramoa Adventure Village, about an hour’s drive away, fits nicely on the itinerary. Run by the very kind Janne, this 360 outdoor resort has paddle boating, kayaking, mountain biking and more – with the option of staying overnight in one of their unique under-the-stellar accommodations.
In Sweden, there are even spa baths outside, but the spa in the 19th-century manor house became a boutique hotel Toftaholm is the only one located on a lake overlooking a small island, populated by a herd of sheep and castle ruins. On the night I stayed here, a lively party had taken over the saunas, periodically breaking up their bums in the steam with quick dips in the cold lake, before going upstairs for some champagne. Try to get away with it in the US.
Finally, you can’t leave Sweden without encountering Ikea. If you didn’t know, the globally loved furniture store started in Småland in Åmhult, and you can visit its very first store ever today, although it has now turned into a museum. The extensive assemblage is quite fascinating as far as furniture museums go, full of interactive exhibits about the history of the brand, but above all, quite a lot of archival items from past collections. But let’s face it – it’s the gift shop, which has goodies you can’t find anywhere else in the world, that’s most worth the trip.