Balagan: where the Middle East and Portugal come together in a humus
The Hebrew word balagan means “sympathetic chaos”. It is curious that we went to visit Balagan, a new restaurant in Ericeira, on a sunny day that followed the unfriendly chaos that ate Lisbon after an unexpected storm.
This happy coincidence was like an announcement that something good would be presented in the space founded by chef Katharina Grafi, after having tested it in a format Appear not Selina Ericeira.
In the building that once operated a famous discotheque in Ericeira, Virtual, is, since September 2022, the Balagan restaurant, which gives way to the dance of cutlery that brings the cuisine of the Middle East and the Mediterranean to the mouth.
Unlike others in the area, with a sea view and seafood on the menu, Balagan has a different concept.
“It’s a different cuisine, but the basic ingredients are the same. Because I can buy everything fresh here: all the herbs, the basic products, like chickpeas, which are one of the main ingredients in Portuguese cuisine. So there’s this connection [gastronómica]”, says the chef🇧🇷
For 15 years the chef Katharina Grafi is linked to the hotel and restaurant business and, when in 2022 the Ericeira City Council launched a competition to rehabilitate the emblematic building, Katharina tried her luck and ended up winning. alone, the chef Austrian (living in Portugal since 2017) then realized her dream in a two-story building.
“The idea was to create a beach house for everyone. To feel comfortable and to come with sand on your feet and a beach dress, but also to arrive at night more dress and enjoy a more chic environment”.
For that, one chef resorted to designer Ingrid Aparicio, from Studio Bacana, who focused on Ericeira’s earth and sea tones to create a harmonious chaos.
When the Middle East and Portugal join the table
Balagan’s card reflects the taste of chef Katharina Grafi for Middle Eastern cuisine and there are moments to enjoy from morning to night.
If you wake up early, you can start the day with an oriental francesinha🇧🇷 baby (braided bread) chocolate “French Toast” style, Greek yogurt candy, tahini🇧🇷 dukkah and red fruit sauce (€7.80), with a bowl of granola (€5) or with the complete Balagan breakfast (8.50€).
Those who go for lunch have a multitude of dishes to share, some of them new to the menu, which is made according to seasonal ingredients.
They are grilled red cabbage with gorgonzola cheese, chestnut dukkah, roasted grapes and oriental stew, with oxtail, pomegranate and mashed potatoes – dishes that are only on the menu in January.
Until then, you can’t miss a meal with a sea view at Balagan, the Bulhão Pato Shrimp Hummuswhere Portuguese and Middle Eastern gastronomy can be found.
On the list of dishes to try, there is still popcorn falafel, fried cuttlefish with oriental spices and sauce both aioli and, of course, the desserts, which include the new milk pudding, with knafeh, pistachio and orange caramel.
Balagan is located in Praia do Sul, Ericeira, and the deli-café is open every day from 9 am to 6 pm, while the restaurant is open from Monday to Wednesday, from 12:30 pm to 11 pm.