Chiang Rai, Switzerland of Thailand
The beaches of Thailand are well known to Indian tourists, but not the mountains.
For this reason, I decided to visit Chiang Rai, the country’s northernmost province, known for its rivers, mountains and two international borders (with Laos and Myanmar).
There is much to see and do in Chiang Rai – temples, gardens, mountains, elephant camps, tribal villages and art sites.
There are more than a dozen flights a day from Bangkok and Phuket to Chiang Rai and also many luxury coaches, making connection to this northern city very easy.
On our first day we focused on Chiang Rai’s famous traditional and modern temples.
Among the traditional ones, the best known is Wat Phra Kaeo, where the revered Emerald Buddha, now in Bangkok, was first discovered in 1434.
A large jade Buddha was erected in its place. There is also an excellent Buddha Museum with numerous Buddha images from all over the country.
Chiang Rai’s most famous temple is the spectacular White Temple, built by artist Chalermchai Kositpipat. Based on traditional Thai architecture, it is white in color and decorated with intricate mirror work on the floor and walls. There are also gold-colored buildings, including a stunning “gold toilet” open to the public. There are constant expansions to the temple to attract new crowds, and the newest is a building littered with Ganesha images.
The Blue Temple is the other famous temple in Chiang Rai built by another individual artist, Putha Kabkaew. The color of this example is a beautiful sapphire blue. It has huge images of yakshas, nagas, tigers, huge black Shiva statue at the entrance, porcelain white Buddha statue inside. And outside of the temple, they even sell blue ice cream!
Last but not least is the Black House Museum created by the world renowned Thai artist Thawan Duchanee. The museum consists of 40 different Thai teak houses filled with paraphernalia such as snakes, crocodile skins, buffalo skulls – not very popular with animal lovers.
Then there is the Big Buddha Temple. This is actually a beautiful, giant image of the Chinese Guan Yin or Goddess of Mercy. The temple offers an impressive view over the whole city, and you can reach the top by stairs or an elevator, which is worthwhile.
Chiang Rai has a rich and diverse art scene which can be seen at the Art Bridge Gallery which hosts a range of art exhibitions throughout the year. It has been excited that next year Chiang Rai will host its first biennial, for which a huge art museum is being built.
According to Gridthiya Gaweewong, Co-Artistic Director, “With more than 300 local artists and 80 artist studios, Chiang Rai deserves a biennial.” She said she is looking at various Indian artists to participate in the art event.
Chiang Rai is known for its Karen and Akha tribes and it was interesting to visit Karen Ruammit Village and Elephant Camp. The elephants were some of the friendliest I have ever seen and it was delightful to take an elephant ride between the mountains.
The Akha tribes have many coffee cafes in Phahee Valley, which you can reach by climbing up the winding valleys of Doi Chang Moob mountain with great views. The cafes also offer rooms for tourists who want to escape the city and take a break in the mountains.
One of the most famous attractions in Chiang Rai is the view of the borders of neighboring countries Laos and Myanmar. This is in Chiang Saen, 60 km from the city, which we reach through lush rice plantations and orchards.
This was also the area of the infamous Golden Triangle, once the center of the region’s opium trade.
In fact, there are two opium museums that offer excellent information on the subject.
It’s fascinating to see the borders of Laos and Burma so close from Chiang Saen, including the casinos that attract many tourists from and out of Thailand.
There are also duty free shopping outlets on both borders, the most famous being at Maesai.
There are also many souvenir shops along the streets.
The mighty Mekong River, the region’s main river, flowing through six countries, is a key sight here.
For lunch we stopped at the exotic newly built resort of Athita, The Hidden Court, known for its grand old world decor but also for its exquisite new world fusion cuisine.
We discovered a wonderful café on the banks of the Mekong, the Chewittikong Café, which is a balm for the eyes and soul.
One cannot leave Chiang Rai without visiting the beautiful Mae Fah Luang Gardens in the Doi Tung Mountains. Often referred to as the ‘Switzerland of the East’, this is known for its lush vegetation and stunning flower gardens. The gardens were first created by the late Princess Mother to wean the locals from opium to flowers and fruits. Your Mai Fah Luang teak villa, a Swiss style chalet, offers great views and lush vegetation. Of course, this is also the area of the famous Doi Tung coffee.
On the way back we visited the new, much discussed garden café Lalita. It was surreal and spectacular with its artificial water jets but amazing fauna and flora.
Among the other attractions in Chiang Rai, we heard about Mega Singha Park with its fields and views and tons of activities for both adults and children.
There is also the famous Tham Luang Caves where 13 young Thai boys were trapped and caught the world’s attention. It had closed due to Covid but has reopened.
On our last evening we found time to visit downtown Chiang Rai with its unique Clock Tower (where sound and light shows take place every night), Weekend Walking Street lined with food stalls and Jedyod Street with its bars and nightclubs.
The Chivit Thamma Da Coffee House is also a must-visit, with its lush location on the Kok River and its extensive range of food and beverages. There I enjoyed Chiang Rai’s most famous khaosoey dish.
We enjoyed a good meal at the city’s only Indian restaurant, Acha, which was packed to the brim with people. Most enthusiastic was our guide Kaan, an Indophile who has been to India many times.
There are daily free city tours by tram from two meeting points that could serve as an introduction to the city.
For transport, the local tuk tuk works well for short journeys, and taxis/cars can be hired for longer journeys. With excellent roads and highways, driving through this northern oasis of Thailand is a pleasure.
Chiang Rai has a wide range of accommodation and we chose the well-known The Legend Hotel, which overlooks the Kok River. They have a variety of rooms ranging from 52 sqm to 1,405 sqm as well as pool villas.
Ours was a super deluxe room with a large living room, bedroom, balcony, separate bathroom and toilet. The Italian restaurant La Casa is outstanding.
It was a pleasure to meet new GM Eric Hallin, a hotel industry doyen who has worked in the country’s finest hotels, including the Indian-owned Rembrandt in Bangkok. He shared that he was pleased to receive many Indian tourists from around the world and looking forward to welcoming more of them from India.
“We definitely want more Indian tourists to visit Chiang Rai and enjoy the mountains as much as the beaches,” said Wisit Buachoom, director of the local TAT tourism office.
The final word came from Jaffee Yee, a well-known travel writer and publisher who, after enjoying the cityscapes of Kuala Lumpur, Hong Kong and Bangkok, decided to settle in this lush city in northern Thailand.
“Chiang Rai has the coolest weather, the greenest mountains and the richest culture of all 77 provinces in Thailand!” he gushed.
He said everything.
For more information, see: www.tourismthailand.org/chiangrai
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