Custo Barcelona and Roberto Diz stimulate the “decaffeinated” catwalk in Madrid
The red carpet dresses roberto says“heavy artillery” and the international designs of Custo Barcelona They have brought light and encouragement to a decaffeinated day of the Madrid catwalk, in this 76th edition in which risk and consecrated names such as Pertegaz or Roberto Torretta are missed.
Heavy artillery has brought to the catwalk Roberto Díz who returns “more slutty and more cane” with a collection in which there are no structures, shoulder pads or interlinings, common elements in her sewing.
Light garments have been seen on the catwalk, “some can be picked up in the hand” and suits made with glass netting, which “invite you to go between dress and nude”, he pointed out to Eph Roberto Diz who has used Andalusian raffia to create garments with great movement.
It is a “stimulating” collection, designed to show off on the red carpet, “my actresses need me”, this Galician based in Seville laughs, who has used an electrified fabric that simulates garbage bags to make evening dresses.
To close the parade, a long fluorescent dress, “the stimulus of neon, a hymn to the joy of living.”
Before, Custo Barcelona, which after presenting its 50th fashion show in New York last week, has transmitted to Ifema the same “Sun o”clock” collection (Appointment with the sun), but with eight new proposals for spring- summer 2023.
«light, lots of lightwe try to make the sun illuminate the dark time again”, said Custo Dalmau, creative director of Custo Barcelona who dominates mini dresses in shiny fabrics and revealing openings.
A firm that began by changing t-shirts, designs that achieved international fame since Julia Roberts wore them in 1999 in the movie Runaway bride.
However, now the dress has become the firm’s star piece together with the urban “body”, “an alternative to the evening dress”.
Custo Dalmau has known how to adapt to changes without losing his way since he started 42 years ago. “All clothes are comfortable”points out the designer who assures that the saying “to show off you have to suffer” does not go with him.
Dalmau, who makes emotional pieces “to surprise women”, does not understand fashion “without creativity and optimism”.
In the early afternoon, the party dresses stepped on the catwalk by Claro Couture and its creative director, Fernando Claro, who presented a collection in which materials such as organza, feathers, satin crepe, rebrodés and lycra prevail. printed, from which it conceives tight silhouettes and with large volumes in the skirt.
Textures in which he lets himself be carried away by a color palette of intense tones such as fuchsia or Klein blue, in which he inserts baby blue and black, a classic for the night.
The Sevillian firm has included, for the first time, a small touch of men’s fashion.
Then came the commercial proposals from Lola Casademunt de Maite, who define the collection as a “summer dream, the one from which we never want to wake up”, commented the creator.
A fantasy that translates into sweet tones, fluoride and tons of glitter, «a way to put energy into everyday life. Flashes that bring magic to garments”, he pointed out maite casademuntthat incorporates animal print in zebra in blue and pink in pants and bags.
“Versatile” garments that accept “different uses, but always comfortable”, warns, which patron with very fluid feminine silhouettes, as is the case of the Americans.
The designer Ulises Mérida has been the winner of the L’Orèal award for the best collection, while the plus-size mannequin Lorena Duran has been chosen as the best model of the 76th edition, which closes with more shadows than lights and gives way to the proposal of young talents that will be held tomorrow.