Castillon, un bordeaux qui a la cote !
The real problem with great Bordeaux wines is that we spend (much) more time talking about money than about emotion when talking about them. The 1995 vintage of a bottle of Petrus – an icon of Pomerol – bought en primeur for less than 100 euros at the time (including inflation) is worth more than 2,500 euros, or +2,500%. The price of a bottle of Petrus 2015 is currently close to 4,800 euros, as much as 48 bottles of the Petrus 1995 mentioned just now. Don’t change your glasses, you read that right.
It should come as no surprise that the image of Bordeaux wines has deteriorated to such an extent in the eyes of the poor that we are, incapable of being millionaires at 50 years old. The tree does not have to hide the forest so much: between 2000 and 2021, the price of a barrel of generic Bordeaux red AOC in bulk fell from around 1,400 to 1,200 euros (source Ministry of Agriculture), look for the mistake…
READ ALSO: North of Colmar, the Sommerberg, this wine “from the hill of summer”
Generation Z (born in 2000) who, however, do not balk at the pleasures of drinking well, unfortunately know nothing of the joys of Bordeaux. Too many sommeliers, out of moral weakness, strive to play the “everything but Bordeaux” card in the very heart of the Gironde capital. A sign of the times that is all the more distressing as the Bordeaux satellites of the classified growths have never been so delicious at very sharp prices. To be convinced of this – whether you are a seasoned drinker or a neophyte – you just have to choose a bottle of Castillon with a little care and pop the cork.
Limestone flavors
Sold under the leadership of the Côtes de Bordeaux, the Castillon vineyard is this secret that must be shared. Immediate neighbor of the archi-famous Saint-Émilion AOC, the territory is also dominated by a comparable limestone plateau where Merlot, flanked by two Cabernets (Franc and Sauvignon) give exemplary grapes. The limestone composition, which is quite porous, allows the subsoil to store a phenomenal quantity of rainwater and the vines to capture this water in the event of drought.
READ ALSO: In Isère, the adventurers of lost wine
It is precisely here, on this plateau, that the famous battle took place in 1453, which pitted us once again against the English. Since Eleanor’s marriage in 1152, Aquitaine had been in the hands of perfidious Albion. By driving the English out of Guyenne, the victory at Castillon definitively attached the region to France. From Castillon-la-Bataille to Saint-Philippe d’Aiguilhe, this limestone – called astéries – was used as building stone for many Girondin buildings. It can give great red wines for laying down, sometimes a little austere in their youth but salivating, pure, straightforward. They have nothing to envy to many Saint-Émilion grands crus.
Below the plateau, the hillsides rich in molasses (more clayey) give rise to more round and affable wines – they will delight lovers of Merlots that are soft on the palate – for a pleasure more immediately after bottling. At the Museum of Fine Arts in Bordeaux there is a rather astonishing painting, Charles V picking up Titian’s brush, painted by Bergeret. When you discover it, you say to yourself that basically, wine is like art: artists and winegrowers must be recognized not for what they are (by the prestige of their name) but by what they do (through their daily attention). Glory to Castillon, no less than to Saint-Émilion!
READ ALSO: Jurançon: at the foot of the Pyrenees, a great white wine
***
Essential bottles
> Castillon-Côtes de Bordeaux 2018
Château Robin, 5 route de Laclaverie in Saint-Cibard, Tel. 05 57 56 05 45. 18 euros.
This ancient terroir was a sleeping beauty until it was taken over in 2018. This first vintage of this new history establishes a frank, straight red, marked by the expression of Cabernets and Malbec. A vintage to follow closely.
> Castillon-Côtes de Bordeaux 2019
Château Les Rochers de Joanin, at Château Grand-Corbin-DEspagne, in Saint-Emilion, Tel. 05 57 51 08 38. 10 euros.
An expression faithful to its limestone soil in Saint-Philippe d’Aiguilhe, the tannins are still a little firm but not hard, two years of patience will be necessary for intense pleasure. Beautiful wine at a democratic price.
> Castillon-Côtes de Bordeaux cuvée La Folie 2017
Maison Kavaklidère, 321 route de Lartigue in Belèves-de-Castillon, Tel. 05 57 49 48 23. 8 euros.
Another little marvel at a friendly price! We enjoy this juicy fruit, with proverbial frankness and simplicity. Cheer.
> Castillon-Côtes de Bordeaux 2019
Château Alcée, in Saint-Cibard, Tel. 05 57 46 07 57. 19 euros.
It is one of the rising stars of the appellation, our tasting confirmed it in this sunny and seductive vintage.
> Castillon-Côtes de Bordeaux 2014
Clos Puy Arnaud, 7 Puy Arnaud in Belvès-de-Castillon, Tel. 05 57 47 90 33. 27 euros.
Thierry Valette offers us an irresistible 2014, without concession to the terroir. Slender and intensely perfumed on the palate with floral notes.
> Castillon-Côtes de Bordeaux cuvée Les Argileuses 2021
Château Le Rey, locality Cassevert in Saint-Christophe-des-Bardes, Tel. 05 57 24 77 15. 14 euros.
A domain to follow very closely for the obvious breed of its juices (the Les Rocheuses 2020 cuvée, sold for 24 euros, is the other nugget of the domain and offers the other facet of the two terroirs of the AOC). A real favourite, congratulations to Jean-Christophe Meyrou and his team.
> Castillon-Côtes de Bordeaux 2016
Domaine de l’A, 11 place called Fillol in Sainte-Colombe, Tel. 05 57 24 92 43.
Not many like Stéphane Derenoncourt have this ability to produce jubilant wines, full of spirit, which become happy without trying to force fate. Very fragrant, sharp, this 2016 is no exception to the rule. We spend a great time in his company.
> Castillon-Côtes de Bordeaux cuvée le Chevalier 2018
Château de l’Anglais, in Puisseguin, Tel. 05 57 74 58 94. 8 euros.
A slender and easily accessible red, distinctive and unifying. Beautiful work.
> Castillon-Côtes de Bordeaux 2019
Clos Louie, 1 Terres blanches in Saint-Genès-de-Castillon, Tel. 05 57 74 46 63. 30 euros.
A mineral impression which intrigues, a fruit which offers its generous in a full body, in short Sophie and Pascal Lucin-Douteau sign a Castillon of very high level.