10 recommendations from a new wine guide
Classics and insider tips
The Swiss wine world is diverse. Around 250 grape varieties are planted. Pinot Noir dominates the reds. But the wineries also produce attractive plants from other grapes. Ten examples to remember.
A new, small wine guide has recently been published. Author Pierre Thoma presents “111 Swiss wines that you have to have drunk” (Emons Verlag). In his selection, he concentrates less on the established grape varieties Pinot noir and Chasselas, but also gives space to other local and international grapes, which are processed into fine wines by established and up-and-coming winegrowers. On the Swiss vineyards of around 15,000 hectares, spread over six regions, around 250 varieties come into their own – an impressive variety.
We took the book as an opportunity to present ten impressive Swiss red wines that should be put in the cellar. The subjective selection includes suggestions from the wine guide, which we also like, as well as our own. The really big names that everyone knows have been left aside for once. Our list starts with A for Adrien Stevens, a young winemaker in Ticino, and ends with Z for Zweigelt, a grape variety cultivated in the Zurich wine region.
10 Swiss red wine recommendations
Blu di Notte, Adrien Stevens, Ticino: The young winemaker started his own wine project three years ago as an independent winegrower, having previously worked with various Ticino companies. Stevens cultivates a small vineyard of 2.7 hectares in the southern canton. His Blu di Notte is an excellent single-layer Merlot that combines power with elegance and has excellent aging potential. A puristic wine style is exercised: spontaneous fermentation with wild yeasts, rare decanting, little sulphur. www.adrienstevens.ch
Nebbiolo, Tenuta Vitivinicola Trapletti, Ticino: You don’t necessarily expect the big variety from Piedmont in Ticino. But they probably produce wines full of character, as Enrico Trapletti proves. The specialty is matured in used barriques. The Nebbiolo is included in the Mémoire des Vins Suisses thanks to its aging potential of at least ten years. An association that selects selected top Swiss wines with appropriate aging opportunities. www.traplettivini.ch
Malbec, Krebs & Steiner winery, 3-lake region: Malbec cuts a fine figure on Lake Biel. Andy Krebs and Sabine Steiner have put together their wineries and together they only produce one wine from this variety, which matures in demi-muids. The result is a dark wine with a velvety soft palate and a powerful spiciness on the finish, as the wine guide “111 Swiss Wines You Have to Drink” writes. Either way, it’s an interesting specialty that probably deserves a place in a well-curated wine cellar. www.krebs-steiner.ch
Cornalin, Cave Caloz, Valais: Countless native varieties are grown in the largest cultivated growing area in Switzerland. The highest quality red is probably the Cornalin. Complex, compact, dense, well-structured wines are made from this, such as that of Sandrine Caloz. The winemaker, who has already received the title “Organic Producer of the Year 2019”, deliberately expands the trouvaille in steel tanks and does not use wood. www.cavecaloz.ch
Pinotage, Cave Rhodan, Valais: Olivier and Sandra Mounir’s estate not only focuses uncompromisingly on quality, but also dares to experiment with exotic grape varieties. Pinotage was planted ten years ago, a cross between Pinot noir and Cinsault that is well-known from South Africa. The result is an independent red wine with complex aromas, power, robust tannins, good acidity and a nice length. An ideal food accompaniment. www.rhodan.ch
Bertholier Rouge, Domaine les Hutins, Geneva: This cuvée of mostly Gamaret (70%) and equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot is certainly one of the best red wines from Geneva. It is vinified and aged in barriques. The wine is characterized by an intense aroma, a nice fullness, present tannins, good acidity and a harmonious length. Emilienne Hutin converts the estate to biodynamic farming. www.domaineleshutins.ch
Galotta Gourmand, Cave des Viticulteurs de Bonvillars, Vaud: Pierre Thoma’s wine guide describes this Vaud specialty as the “power of a modern red”. The new Gamay x Ancelotta breed is grown by a winegrower who has joined this cooperative. They included the wine with clear tannins and pronounced spicy notes in their prestige line “Collection Gourmand” – almost an accolade. www.cavedebonvillars.ch
Servagnin, Domaine Henri Cruchon, Vaud: seragnin? Probably never heard of. It is a grape variety that is known around the world under another name: Pinot noir. In the AOC Morges you can call it “Servagnin”, a peculiarity throughout Switzerland. The top estate Cruchon presses it into an aromatic, finesse-rich, medium-heavy, complex wine with a subtle mineral aftertaste. A specialty to discover. www.henricruchon.com
Fläscher Syrah, Adank winery, German-speaking Switzerland: The Bündner Herrschaft is the stronghold of Pinot Noir. But the Adank family business has been proving for years that the Rhône variety Syrah also produces excellent results. The wine is characterized by the varietal aroma of black berries and pepper, density, concentration, juiciness and good length. A more than valuable alternative to classic Syrah wines. www.adank-weine.ch
Zweigelt, Besson-Strasser winery, German-speaking Switzerland: The married couple Cédric Besson and Nadine Strasser produce one of my favorite Pinot noirs, the Chlosterberg, in the Zurich municipality of Uhwiesen. They also grow the Zweigelt variety. The “scheming intruder from Austria”, i.e. the guide “111 Swiss wines that you must have drunk”, was first planted in 1994. The result is a fruity wine with aromas of blackberries and plums and a spicy finish. The biodynamic working estate is Demeter certified. www. wine.ch