A fairytale European holiday with giant castles and ‘fairy lakes’
WITH A HIKING in the Dolenj forest, we are surprised by its fairy-tale beauty.
A dusting of snow fell overnight, so the river Sušica became even more turquoise as it meanders deep into the Alpine mountains.
We are in the northSlovenia on a guided walking tour through the picturesque Julian Alps.
My quick hike begins on the small but mighty coast, the Gulf of Piran, which lies between Italy and Croatiawhere the Fonda fish farm is located.
The farm’s expansive waters are backed by the Italian Dolomites, and we soak up the views from our boat as we wind our way through the buoys and dozens of giant blue rubber rings that mark the bass cages.
The sea bass and mussels here are of the highest quality, recently awarded the Jakob Award, meaning there is no healthier or fresher fish in Mediterranean.
“We want our fish to be appreciated like fine wine,” Irena Fonda, head biologist of the fish farm, tells me. “The world is obsessed with good wine, but we are obsessed with healthy fish.”
And where is the best place to try this fish? A few hours north of here, at the Kavarna Park restaurant by Lake Bled, where they serve not only excellent sea bass, but also boards of deer salami, local cheese and grissine dipped in bacon.
We put white fish in the portions, which melts in the mouth, accompanied by white wine from the Slovenian winery Bjana.
In addition to the restaurant, the stunning landscape of Lake Bled and the mighty castle (entrance fee €13) attract visitors, as well as the medieval church, steeped in legends and standing proudly in the middle of the lake.
Couples from all over the world gather here to get married – and legend has it that for a successful marriage, the groom must climb the 99 steps to Mary’s Church with the bride in his arms.
Legend has it that fairies created Lake Bled. And another, less happy story, tells that a young widow who lived in the castle paid for the church bell with her wealth after her husband was killed by robbers and his body was thrown into the water.
What is not a myth is the healing energy of thermal springs throughout Slovenia, which has been used as a healing source since the 13th century.
It started with Roman Catholic monks who worked the salt fields along the coast and thus made the world-famous Piran salt. In doing so, they found that salt workers rarely get sick, so they cultivated medicines for thalassotherapy (treatment with sea water) to treat the wider population.
Centuries-old medicines are still in practice today. Slovenians are treated for free in many spas and health resorts across the country.
The Sotelia Wellness Hotel is one of them, and as I drive there I am surprised to see it in the form of a huge dome of dark glass, set in an emerald hill, surrounded by forest and facing the centuries-old houses on the hills opposite.
Visitors in white robes and slippers stroll inside the giant dome, and there are dozens of fountains with jets to relax muscles after a Nordic walk, as well as thermal pools lit in lilac, emerald and orange.
Unbelievable, huh spa a night here starts at just €85 with breakfast, but it’s worth going elsewhere for dinner.
In nearby Brežice, the Ošterija Debeluh restaurant serves Slovenian haute cuisine from €12, in addition to local wines.
For starters, there are smoked butter mixed with pieces of bosman – fried light bread – and smoked trout with roasted pear, horseradish and trout egg.
Then, for the main course, Fat Cake, which is steak tartare soaked in a cold broth with nutmeg, goose liver and quail eggs seasoned with coffee.
Before flying home, we stop at our third castle fortress in the capital Ljubljana.
A walk up its 11th-century tower offers panoramic views of the old town and its cream, yellow and rust-pink roofs. Now I really feel like I’m in a fairy tale.
GO: SLOVENIA
GET THERE: British Airways flies direct from London to Ljubljana from £62 one way. See ba.com.
STAYING THERE: Double rooms at the Balnea Hotel cost from £208, including breakfast. See hotelbalnea.com.
OUT AND ON THE TRACK: A boat trip and a gastronomic experience at the Fonda fish farm costs 45 euros. See fonda.si.
The entrance fee to Ljubljana Castle costs €12 per person. See visitljubljana.com. Guided Nordic walks can be booked at the hotel reception from €25.