In the new Geneva restaurant, Sachi should be eaten at the counter
gastro criticism
Top Japanese restaurants are rare in Switzerland. The trip to Geneva is all the more worthwhile. In the new restaurant of the luxury hotel Mandarin Oriental you can eat a la carte or order the omakase menu. Our gastro critic reveals why the highlight was quickly served at the end and what else should be written about.
Always something new seems to be the «Mandarin Oriental» to say in Geneva. A couple of years has been here Indian cuisine at a high level. Which is also saying a lot, because the quality of the best Indian restaurants in London or Mumbai is in Switzerland not yet achieved – despite many good approaches.
So now a Japanese-style kitchen – with a double concept. Reserve a table and dine à la carte, from sushi to tempura, or sit at the bar and order the six, eight, or ten-course omakase menu. That is to say: a menu created by chef Mitsuru Tsukada, known as Chef Mitsu, who descends from the internationally renowned Japanese chef Nobu Matsuhisa was trained. Your own standards are obviously high.
A food dramaturgy of its own
The large omakase menu follows a dramaturgy that everyone who is not yet familiar with the finest form of Japanese cuisine will have to get used to. Tempura and sashimi, for example, were at the forefront of the menu – wafer-thin batter and crunchy vegetables for the first dish, first-class fish and scallops for the second.
At this point, as in many Japanese restaurants, one can discuss the wasabi. If it is of the best quality, freshly grated from the tuber at the table, it can be an ideal complement to the fish. Here, however, the side dish die out only mediocre. Admittedly, fresh wasabi is expensive, which is why many restaurants shy away from spending it. However, many a guest would probably accept a surcharge.
The mussels doused with oil
One of the highlights of the menu, on the other hand, is the Callista chione mussels, also known as palourdes rouges, which are cooked here very briefly in hot sesame oil and served with fresh ginger. An experience! Chawanmushi also excellent with foie gras – even if it was a massive portion. This was followed by wagyu, thin slices of mushrooms, briefly grilled. Here too: not much remained that could be improved.
But the highlight came – long live the dramaturgy – at the end. A sequence of nigiri sushi, prepared and served à la minute by the sous chef in front of the guest. Surprising for those who like to order sushi as a starter, but a tradition that makes sense.
After the meat, the rice snacks with their slightly sour note are particularly refreshing. Although I was initially skeptical that otoro sushi (made with tuna belly) and white truffles would go together, I was won over: the flavors didn’t clash in this case, and the rice was perfectly cooked and seasoned.
Sake plus Riesling with dinner and a refreshing dessert
What you drink with Japanese cuisine can be discussed, but WILL quickly come up with two names: Riesling and Sake. In the «Sachi» the service demonstrates both wine and sake expertise. Riesling from the German winery van Volxem goes well with the first courses, and the Tatenokawa sake served with the sushi variations was a revelation. Even beyond the wine advice, the service showed an excellent performance – from the reception to the farewell.
And the dessert? After many courses of omakase came what one wishes for the most: a sorbet prepared with yuzu was perfectly prepared and wonderfully refreshing. It was the icing on the cake of a very compelling dining experience.
At a glance
address
Restaurant Sachi at Mandarin OrientalQuai Turrettini 1, 1201 Geneva
Prices
The omakase menu costs from 110 francs (6 courses) to 180 francs (10 courses).
Rating of our gastro critic
Cuisine: 8/10 (Omakase Menu), Guest Culture: 8.5/10
Note: The ratings are based on the conceivable maximum of 10 points. The reference to the kitchen only relates to the quality of the food, that to the guest culture includes all other aspects of a restaurant visit.
The visit was by invitation.