Simultaneously mountainous and coastal, beloved by dedicated mountaineers and sun worshippers, Albania at first glance seems like a cultural cauldron with Greek, Italian and Turkish influences that have left their mark over the centuries. But dig a little deeper and let the ancient Illyrian land and language be revealed; it is a strength, durability and adhesiveness living joy.

With the second largest Muslim population in Europe after Kosovo (around 60 percent of Albanians are Muslim), the country is also a poster child for religious tolerance, with stunning mosques and cathedrals built side by side in the Balkan nation’s cities and towns. . It was a fortress of the Ottoman Islamic Empire for more than 500 years and is still home to some remarkable architecture of the era, despite the best efforts of 20th century dictator Enver Hoxha to destroy it. A visit is sure to be met by very friendly and welcoming locals and some of the most affordable prices on the continent.

Travel restrictions and entry requirements

As of May 1, 2022, all travel requirements related to Covid-19 have been lifted. Travelers no longer need to show proof of vaccination or a negative PCR test to enter Albania.

Best time to go

With a similarly balmy climate to neighboring Greece, Albania is one of the sunniest countries in Europe, with hours of sunshine peaking between April and October. The best time for hiking in the mountains is the quieter months of spring and fall, but thanks to the high altitude, summer works even if you don’t mind the more crowded trails. Summer is certainly the best time to explore the beaches of the Riviera, but temperatures rise, so if exploring Ottoman cities and towns is on your agenda, spring or autumn is also preferable.

Main regions

Tirana

Tirana was a quiet inland city until the capital was moved here in 1912. Careful 20th-century town planning provides pleasant leafy, wide streets with plenty of shade from the intense summer heat. The epicenter of the city is the newly pedestrianized Skanderbeg Square, a grand space that houses the beautiful 18th-century Et’hem Bey Mosque and the Communist-era Opera House and National History Museum. Nearby, the Pazari i Ri market is packed with food stalls and restaurants, but it’s the Block where you’ll want to graze – this bustling corner of the city was once a residential area for ruling communist politicians and is now a vibrant hub of cafes, bars, restaurants and clubs.

Shkodra and the Albanian Alps

Founded by the ancient Illyrian tribes in the 4th century BC, Shkodra has seen some action in its time. The gateway to Albania if you’re arriving from Northern Europe by bus or car, it’s a peaceful and atmospheric little town ‒ so give it some time, as it’s more than just a jumping-off point for the mountains. Rent a bike and head out on the lake, rummage through hidden flea markets and find yourself captivated by the Marubi National Museum of Photography. Moving on, minibuses go up to Theth National Park every morning, where you can try shorter local walks or follow the popular one-day trail to Valbonës, where vans will take you back to Shkodër the next afternoon.

Gjirokastra

Famous for its fantastically preserved and sophisticated Ottoman-era architecture, Gjirokastra’s winding cobbled streets are Unesco-protected for good reason. Set back from the coast and set high in the hills, the stunning architecture of the old city was once home to one of the largest centers of Sufism (a mystical, meditation-based school of Islam) outside of Turkey. While only a handful of religious buildings survived Enver Hoxha’s purge, churches and mosques still live side by side here, as they have for centuries. Gjirokastra Castle is definitely one of the best in the country (competition is fierce as there are over 150) with gleaming white stones and huge castle walls.

Riviera

The 120 km stretch of coastline from Vlora to Saranda, known as the Albanian Riviera, is made up of picturesque hillside villages and majestic shades of pale blue as the Ionian Sea laps its pebbly beaches. Popular stops are festival hub Dhërmiu and backpacker favorite Himare, or head to the luxurious cluster of small islands in Ksamil. A highway runs along the coast, served by a handful of buses a day in both directions ‒ take this route to explore the less-trodden beaches along the way by renting a car or motorbike, or if you’re feeling brave, do as young Albanians hitchhike. The crystalline waters of the riviera are unexpectedly cool, even in the heat of summer, thanks to water springs that flow from the mountains and under the seabed.

Underrated destinations

Canyon of Berat and Osum

Just as impressive as Gjirokastra, but often overlooked in its favor, is another Ottoman-era city, Berat. Known as the city of a thousand windows, the windows of Berat amaze the viewer, bending from the banks of the river towards the hills. The castle dates back to the 13th century with a fantastic little Byzantine church inside ‒ step up to St Mary’s for the show-stopping mosaics. Of course there are also wonderful mosques here – Berat’s wonderful example of the religious tolerance that Albania is so good at. Take a day trip from here to Osum Canyon, where you can wade through the river, past the cliff faces, and pick up mud from the riverbed to use as a nourishing face mask.

Archaeological Park of Butrint

Greek, Roman and Byzantine ruins adorn this former metropolis, located on the edge of the Riviera. Butrint is arguably home to the best ruins in Albania and indeed the Western Balkans, but is often overlooked on the way to the beach. It’s a sprawling site with buildings dotted around the lagoon, (imagine Pompeii in the middle of a bayou), including Roman baths, a Greek amphitheater and Venetian towers. Prepare to spend the day there and wear extremely comfortable shoes. There is a later Ottoman addition worth climbing too; The infamous leader Ali Pasha built a fortress here to keep an eye on Napoleon, who had taken Corfu nearby.

Korce

The birthplace of Albania’s fresh local ham, Korça is nestled between picturesque mountains and immersed in nature, but less trodden by tourists than other parts of the country. Hiking tops the list of things to do here, but the city is also filled with fantastic architecture and cultural institutions. The John Mill Photography Museum gives a glimpse into 20th-century life here, while the Medieval Museum, doing what it says on the tin, is one of the best in the country. The show stopper, the Orthodox Cathedral of the Resurrection of Christ gets the most attention, but the small Iliaz Bey Mirahori mosque is also indisputable, as one of the oldest in the country.

Best things to do

Take a nice walk

The hike from Thethi to Valbona, through the Albanian Alps (or Bjeshke and Nemuna as they are sometimes called) tops everyone’s list for a reason. Views this stunning rarely come on such a manageable hike ‒ and, with the right shoes, it’s manageable for novice hikers, as long as you’re able to walk the 16km, which takes six to nine hours. This trip takes at least three days on an itinerary, usually with two nights ‒ it’s a day’s travel at each end as minibuses go from Shkodra to Theth or Valbonës every morning and return in the afternoon, with a full day of walking in between.

Swimming in pools and rivers

Take a dip in the cold water at the unusual sights of natural beauty that Albania has by the dozen. The first three are Syri i Kaltër, a turquoise pool with cold mountain spring water (usually around 10-13°C) on the way to Gjirokastër; the above-mentioned Osum canyon near Berat, where you can go by raft or by water along the Osum river; or the more daring (the road from Shkodra is not great) will enjoy swimming in the river Shale, which flows within the Albanian Alps range.

Look for flea markets

These exist in every town and city, rarely marked on map apps, but ask a local where the nearest one is and you’ll be rewarded beyond your wildest, vintage-loving dreams.

Spinning

Renting a car or motorbike is relatively cheap in Albania, but if you prefer to use public transport, be prepared to embrace a slightly mysterious but fully functional bus network that covers most corners of the country. Use the local Gjirafa site to check long distance bus timetables and timetables, although the service may leave a little earlier or later, a clear run with the necessary flow attitude. There is no app or site to book in advance, you pay the driver so you get roughly the exact change – prices are usually listed on Gjirafa too.

How to get there

There are regular direct flights from London to Tirana on Wizz Air, which is the cheapest and fastest option. But there are also a number of non-flying routes, depending on how much time you have to spend. The quickest way without flying would be to take the trains to Bari in Italy (via Paris, Milan and Rome) and take the daily ferry to Durrës on the northern coast of Albania. Or if Balkan buses appeal more than ferries, take the train to Belgrade (via Zagreb) and bus down to Shkodër from there.

Money saving advice

Albania is extremely cheap compared to most other European nations, but if you’re really strapped, take your tent with you and use one of the countless fantastic campsites that are dotted across the length and breadth of the country. .

Frequently asked questions

How is the weather?

Albania is blessed with approximately 300 days of sunshine per year, so spring and autumn are fantastic times to go. Summer sees temperatures soar into the 40s, so stick to coastal destinations in peak July and August.

What time zone is it in?

GMT+1.

What currency do I need?

Albanian leke.

What language is spoken?

Albania (aka ALBANIAN) is the home of Albanians (Albania) who speak Albanian (Albanian).