The eastern Swiss canton of Graubünden is for everyone and all seasons
Switzerland in general, and Eastern Switzerland in particular, is one of the few places on the planet where the scenery exactly matches any Technicolor postcard one might buy or receive. While skiing, chocolate and cheese spring to mind, not to mention fine Swiss watches to get you to the chocolate shops before they close, there is so much more to appreciate in Eastern Switzerland.
Graubünden, the largest of Switzerland’s 26 cantons, is known as a winter wonderland. However, the other seasons are just as wonderful for those wishing to engage in the many outdoor activities available, enjoy the many excellent therapeutic spa offerings, or visit one of the 615 pristine lakes that grace the region.
Beautiful Lenzerheide
At the foot of the Parpaner Rothhorn in the Plessuralpen, many come to Lenzerheide to ski one of the 230 km long slopes. However, connoisseurs also come the rest of the year as there is excellent hiking, trail running and waterfalls. For mountain bike fans it’s a true mecca with 560 miles of mountain bike trails, obstacle courses and jumps. Part of the UCI Mountain Biking World Cup took place here last summer, and Lenzerheide is part of the larger “Mountain Bike Kingdom” along with Arosa, Chur and Albula. It is hard to imagine that Friedrich Nietzsche wrote about nihilism here in the midst of all this natural beauty.
Lenzerheide has different accommodation styles, from simple to four-star. I hung my hat on the four star hotel Guarda Val Maiensass Hotel, a row of renovated farmhouses about three kilometers from the town of Lenzerheide. There are 50 rooms, ranging from single rooms and suites to the Stailetta, a private alpine hut with sauna and whirlpool. A traditional outdoor hot tub, hayloft massage parlor and sauna are on site. There are still cows, chickens and goats on the property and while I was there a cow gave birth to twin calves. Foodies will appreciate the Michelin-starred restaurant, where chef Salvatore Frequente creates artful, delicious dishes like salmon-stuffed beet ravioli and black cod with shiso.
In the city, Schweitzerhof hotels The renovated Berg Spa features a large hammam circuit, including steam, regular, and Finnish saunas, a plunge pool, an exfoliation room, and a Rassoul room. Here you are handed a stainless steel bowl containing what looks like gooey chocolate cake batter but is mineral clay. With sufficient coating, steam spreads out of pipes, followed by two overhead rain showers.
In nearby Churwalden, the sound of cow bells is pleasantly omnipresent. If cattle can ever be called happy cattle, then lush, bucolic hill pastures rule here as far as the eye can see. While the Swiss can be a serious bunch at times, there’s no shortage of humor. As I took the chairlift to begin the fast, nearly two-mile toboggan ride, I noticed several stuffed teddy bears also enjoying a ride near the cafe.
Sensational St Moritz
Near Lenzerheide, I took a 90-minute train ride to St. Moritz. Rushing waterfalls vied with miles of impossibly green forests amidst spectacular snow-capped peaks, followed by crossing the Albula Pass and the UNESCO Longwater Viaduct – a single-strand, six-arch, curved limestone railway. In Graubünden, train journeys are as wonderful as excursion destinations.
St. Moritz has twice hosted the Winter Olympics and has captured the hearts of many around the world as a luxurious alpine winter playground for the super-rich. Make no mistake it’s fabulous to be here off season for all types of sport. It’s also a fine spot for therapy therapy along Via Serlas and whiskey tastings at the Waldhaus Am See Hotel’s Devil’s Place, reputedly the largest in the world with over 2,500 varieties.
Stay in the heart of St. Moritz at Art Boutique Monopoly Hotel was an excellent choice for location, comfort and friendly staff. Centrally located overlooking Lake St. Moritz, a stone’s throw from the casino and funicular, most of the Monopol’s 67 rooms have been beautifully renovated with elegant designs and furnishings. The public areas feature canvas prints by Picasso, Dali and Chagall, as well as several pieces from the owner’s private collection. The Wellvista Roof Spa overlooks Lake St Moritz and features a Finnish sauna, sanarium, plunge pool, foot bath and very talented massage therapists offering a full range of facial and body treatments. Couples should opt for the private “Lifestyle Spa Night” between 9 p.m. and midnight, including champagne, fruit and a sausage platter.
There is still a lot of snow beyond the winter. Taking the funicular a few meters from Monopol up to Chantarella, then the Corviglia and cable car up to Piz Nair, I was whisked to over 10,000 feet in minutes as the full meaning of St. Moritz’s slogan ‘Top of the World “ became clear. Fairy tales aren’t needed when there are breathtaking, eternal views like these. From here you can see the five closest lakes in the area: Silvaplana, Sils, St. Moritz, Staz and Champfer. There was too much snow to hike down from the top, so I took the gondola up the Corviglia at 2,500 meters and hiked down from there.
After eating western food for a week I was very happy to dine at Asia 75 Cresta Palace Hotel in nearby Celerina. Chef Rolf Schmitz worked in Asia for over 20 years, brought his expertise home and provided the region with first-class Thai and Chinese delicacies. In winter Cresta is a lovely ski-in ski-out hotel, in the low season there are great hiking opportunities and two 18-hole golf courses nearby in Samedan and Zuoz. From Cresta I hiked up the forest path, then down to Lake Stazer, then to and around Lake Moritz and back to Monopol. One could spend days or weeks here hiking, biking, paddling, sailing and windsurfing. Plus, you have to love a place that has spent 80 million Swiss francs on a public pool, spa and gym when there are only 5,000 year-round residents.
Divine Davos
From St. Moritz, the drive along Route 27 is dotted with small villages, flowering balconies and churches lining the path to Route 28’s Flüela Pass, where winding roads and verdant forests alternate with emerald hills and mountains. Since it was Saturday, dozens of exotic cars, newer Rolls Royce models and Porsches drove over the Flüela Pass. With snow-capped peaks above and rushing streams below, I descended to Davos. Known for its skiing, spas and annual World Economic Forum, Davos is made up of two towns, Davos-Platz and Davos-Dorf on the Landwasser River, just over 5,000 feet above sea level.
Approaching what appears to be a giant alien spacecraft, the 216 room Hotel Alpengold with a view of Lake Davos was designed as a horizontal pine cone. However, locals call it the golden egg. Every conceivable mod-con inside, including smart elevators that kind of made me feel very unintelligent as I desperately wanted to push a button. With spacious rooms, amazing beds, a circular sofa, a deep soaking tub, and a large balcony to enjoy the view, it quickly became clear why then-Vice President Joseph Biden stayed here in 2016. (Some suites may adjoin up to five bedrooms, housing staff and security guards. )
Out of season, the open-kitchen Sapori Restaurant offers traditional Italian cuisine in a chic atmosphere, while the Nuts & Co Bar serves small plates in a comfortable library atmosphere. AlpenGold is also home to Spa Nescens, a 13,000-square-foot, state-of-the-art facility with heated indoor and outdoor pools, saunas, steam rooms, a 24-hour gym, and 14 treatment rooms for treatments based on Swiss anti-aging science. If I didn’t look younger when I left, then I did felt younger.
After walking the 2.5 mile long Davoser See twice, I took a break at one of the cafes and enjoyed the pleasure of watching paddle boarders, windsurfers and wakeboarders from my comfortable spot. Against the azure sky, this was a slice of heaven. If you need new walking shoes or other sports gear, there are several good shops along the promenade between the Belvedere Hotel and Stauble Jewelers where you can easily snag a new Rolex.
Another great hike is through the Dishma Valley along the glacier-fed and freezing Dishma River through an emerald forest of trees and pastures with roaming cows, horses and several small farms. This hike brought me to the 100 year old Restaurant Teufi, known for its cured meats, fondues and delicious traditional barley soups. Some take the horse and carriage ride to Teufi and then walk down, but as I tend to do things the opposite way I hiked up, took the carriage for about 15 minutes and then walked to AlpenGold, 10 miles total.
Near Davos-Platz, the funicular took me up Berghotel Schatzalp, originally built in 1900 as a sanatorium for tuberculosis sufferers, but now a hotel with an aptly named X-ray bar. It was here that Thomas Mann wrote his classic novel The Magic Mountain, published in 1924, and the 2015 film Jugend, starring Michael Caine, Harvey Keitel and Rachel Weisz, was partially filmed here. From here you can enjoy 167 miles of hiking trails. If you have time, drive to Davos-Klosters, which is about 20 minutes away. This charming town has a wealth of traditional Swiss A-frame wooden houses perched on a hilltop and was a perennial favorite of Charles and Diana.
As my week in Grisons When it came to an end, it became clear that I was leaving with a desperate desire to return. Even more remarkably, this wish had little to do with chocolate!