Que veut, vraiment, dire, “grand vin de Bordeaux” sur une bouteille ?
F
touring the labels of a wine fair, the protagonist of the album Œnologix: everything you need to know about wine in comic strips (written by François Bachelot and drawn by Vincent Burgeon, published by Dunod) is looking for proof of quality and wondering if he is making a good pick with a bottle where “is marked “great Bordeaux wine” on the label”. His mentor replies: “which just means that the producer is up to date with his professional dues”. Do not confuse “great wine” and “grand cru”. »
Regulated, the optional mention “great Bordeaux wine” is not linked to the payment of the Compulsory Voluntary Contributions (CVO) which are incumbent on winegrowers claiming a Geographical Indication (GI). According to the Bordeaux wines and quality signs service of the C division of the Regional Directorate for the Economy (DREETS), “the names of PDO/PGI can be supplemented by names of smaller geographical units (example: AOP Côtes de Bordeaux – Castillon), which corresponds to more restrictive or greater production conditions (example: AOP Saint-Emilion – Grand vin de Bordeaux) insofar as the specifications of the appellation concerned so provide*”. Consequently, “Its affixing is possible except for these necessary and restrictions, without it being related to a reason such as the CVO regulations. The commitment of the professional who uses it is to respect the production conditions of the specifications if the latter provides for the faculty of use. » What is the case for the specifications Medoc and Saint Emilion.
Other mention pinned by the comic Oenologix : “an “old vines” cuvée”with the caveat: “the problem is that the mention is not regulated… These can be 5 years old as well as 50”. The DREETS of Bordeaux Cognac confirms that there are no regulations, specifying that “As with any non-compulsory statement, its use must be able to be justified by professionals, except to characterize a misleading commercial practice”.
In terms of information on labels, the Directorate General for Competition, Consumer Affairs and Fraud Prevention (DGCCRF) has just published a booklet providing an update on the regulations in force. Further reading for geeks ofOenologix.
*: Provisions applied to Article 120 § 1 g) of the Regulation (EU) No 1308/2013 and in article 5 of the Decree No. 2012-655 of May 4, 2012 relating to the labeling and traceability of wine products and certain oenological practices.