Why Amettes, a small village in Pas-de-Calais, held by thousands of pilgrims every year?
By Anne-Sophie Hourdeaux
Published on
In Pas-de-Calais, Amettesnot far from Lilles, is an atypical village: this is where in the 18th century Saint Benedict Joseph Labre was born (1748-1783), atypical saint nicknamed “ the tramp of God ». Let’s find out how is animated this village which holds thousands of pilgrims every year !
On a few m2 in the heart of Amettes are the sacred Labrian “triangle”, three places that swear by Saint Benedict Labre: the church, his birthplace and the pilgrim’s shelter.
Trust in God, like Benoit
Valérie Courquin is the new host of the place, appointed by the diocese of Arras. Its goal: to further develop the reception on this exceptional site, unrivaled in the region.
“Saint Benoît Labre is the patron saint of those who are on the road, refugees, the homeless. By extension, to those who have trouble finding their way. We all have to take a road, and it’s not easy. Benoît teaches us to let go, to trust in the Lord…”
Each saint has his particularity, but still, Benoît Labre has been nicknamed “God’s lousy”, or “God’s tramp”. An entire program ! Rejected from several monasteries because of his precarious physical and mental health, he decides to hit the road, alone, without money. He would even have made a vow not to wash, out of humility. He will walk 35,000 km in his short life, he dies at 35.
In the footsteps of Benoît Labre
Amettes still bears today many traces of the existence of Benoît Labre.
In the church of Saint-Sulpice. “You are here at the start of Benoît Labre’s faith,” points out Adeline, in her thirties, one of the site’s volunteers.
There are plenty of references to the saint: his death mask, where you can guess his features, the baptistery where he was baptized, the stained glass windows of the choir recounting his life. Very moving details in a place he assiduously assumed.
The church also has the shrine of the saint, containing the mattress where he died. The relic of his skull is not kept in the church, but in the cathedral of Arras. It is “lent” to Amettes for the time of the novena.
Safe from the pilgrim. Built a few meters from the church, a room receives groups for lessons, workshops…
In the birthplace. Located in front of the church, in a pasture, it is revealed below a sloping ground. On the side, a Stations of the Cross with 14 large stone stations, dating from the 19th century.
You can freely visit the house, which is open very regularly. The house, very bare, retains only a few things, but we realize the simplicity in which Benoît Labre lived in his childhood.
Next to the house, the old barn has been transformed into a small chapel. “Benoît liked to pray in this place,” says Valérie Courquin.
These traces do not belong to a museum approach, but are the object of a real devotion, a popular piety.
Thousands of pilgrims
Every year thousands of pilgrims treated to pass through this place. With a key date: late August-early September, the novena takes place. Whole cars arrive, groups from all over the region.
Individuals also make the trip, like Marie, who came with her religious sister, who lives in Lumbres. “Benoît is the opposite of our current society, he seeks the essential and not the material or the superficial. He was even considered crazy, like a tramp. He was a seeker of God”.
Marie comes at least once by a site on this: “It’s my yoga! I need it for my spiritual health, which is not thought about enough in our society. It gives me strength, a desire to love”.
To welcome them, a whole organization has been put in place, thanks to the Friends of Saint Benedict Labre association. Composed of about fifteen active members, they respond to the highlights of the site, such as the famous novena.
The association
Thanks to them, the municipal hall also puts on Labrian garb: for 9 days, around 80 meals must be served there every lunchtime. Always with fries on the menu!
Mauricette is in her 22nd novena with the association: “I will be unhappy without Amettes! It makes me crazy. As soon as things go wrong, I come here. Every two weeks, I come to clean up the church. I love the simplicity of Saint Benedict, he brings us inner strength”.
Christiane runs the little religious store during the novena: “My mum adored Benoît Labre, I take part in the association to make her happy where she is”. She has always lived in the area around Amettes, but she absolutely wanted to find accommodation in the village, and she succeeded! “I am a hiker, I like to see pilgrims of all nationalities passing through Amettes”.
Indeed, the village is located on the Via Francigena, 1700 km between Canterbury in England and Rome, a sort of road to Compostela bis. Walkers from all over the world therefore pass regularly on the Labrian site.
Soon sanctuary?
What is the future of this village saint? Welcoming pilgrims remains a priority, with projects such as the creation of a place to listen and a sales area at the shelter.
Also, the place has everything to become a real “sanctuary”, a special status that concerns places of pilgrimage. A process is underway. To make this unrecognized atypical saint, who still speaks today, even better known. Besides, as Omer says: “You will leave here amazed! »
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