Monaco: a kid on the roof | Gilles Pudlowski’s blog
A new fashion and Monegasque table. Our correspondent for the Côte d’Azur, Alain Angenost, is there…
Nothing stops the twins Antoine and Ugo Lecorché. Arrived on the Côte d’Azur eighteen years ago as waiters, they are not only at the head of “La Môme”, a gourmet and Cannes brand which brings together all the restaurants of the impasse Florian, an essential festive place in the Carré d’Or and an eponymous beach on the Croisette, but there they are, becoming “mômégasques”.
After buying the Port Palace hotel, they invested the 6e floor to transform it into “Môme Monte-Carlo”, a rooftop restaurant with more than two hundred seats with a beautiful airy and shaded terrace, a bright room with beautiful spaces, all with a view overlooking Port Hercule and the Prince’s Palace. At the head of this new entity, a connoisseur of Monegasque customers, Luigi Visciano, former director of the table de l’Hermitage, of the two-star restaurant Joël Robuchon at the Hotel Métropole and, for twelve years, of the Avenue 31.
In the kitchen, we find Benjamin Zannier, who went to Coya, a beautiful neo-Peruvian address in Monaco, who was chef at the Solenzara beach in Roquebrune-Cap-Martin and at the Remparts at La Chèvre d’Or in Eze. It was recently that of the Villa Marie of the Sibuet group in Saint-Barth. This new address is already a hit with 300 covers per day when it opens. We come to indulge ourselves with dishes that smell like the Mediterranean and are served by staff that are as friendly as they are complicit.
The raw artichoke salad à la provençale, the tuna ceviche with local tomatoes seasoned with mezcal, a vitello tonnato in the rules of the art, very crunchy octopus, with smoked yogurt and mashed potatoes with hazelnuts, the semi-cooked tuna a la plancha with a citrus note and its pan-fried green vegetables are absolutely guaranteed.
As for desserts, we like cabbage with red fruits. But you can also share a giant cookie, Nutella, milk and white chocolate duo, pistachio cream and vanilla ice cream, or a delicious variation of pies, chocolate/pear, green apple, strawberry/lemon, apricot/passion fruit cheesecake. In short, here is a Kid on the way to charm the Principality and establish a well-deserved notoriety, signed Lecorché!
The Kid Monte Carlo
Roof of the Port Palace Hotel, 6th floor
7 John Fitzgerald Kennedy Avenue
98000, Monaco
Such : +377 99 92 11 93
Map : 60-80 €
Hourly : 12 p.m. to 3 p.m., 7 p.m. to 11:30 p.m.
Weekly closing: always open
To place : en construction
cabbage with red fruits