Monaco: Yannick Alléno’s Pavyllon | Gilles Pudlowski’s blog
Yannick Alléno serving © AA
When Yannick Alléno takes over the Hôtel Hermitage in Monaco, our correspondent for the Côte d’Azur, Alain Angenost, is there. He tells us everything…
The counter © AA
What a long way for Yannick Alléno since his Bocuse d’Argent in Lyon in 1999! He kept, engraved in his memory, the premonitory words of Paul Bocuse to his expected: “ You see little one, this silver Bocuse, it will be gold for you”. Triple-starred in Paris and Courchevel, he has tried gourmet restaurants and bistros dear to his childhood, all over the world. It was in 2021 that the SBM asked him to install “Pavyllon”, its relaxed and starred Parisian concept around a counter offering joyful and extensive gastronomy, within the Hôtel Hermitage Monte-Carlo.
Bass and beef, caviar with crispy condiments © AA
After a first season full of optimism, major embellishment work was undertaken under the leadership of interior designer Chahan Minassian, author of that of the capital, during the winter closure. Chance gourmands can now choose the atmosphere that suits them, either in the carefully decorated dining room with its alcoves and private lounge, or facing the open kitchen, the large and friendly semi-circular counter equipped with large bay windows that overlook the green terrace with a panorama of the Rock and the Mediterranean.
Red mullet roasted in crispy zucchini foil © AA
The menu concocted by his disciple Guillaume Bellayer announces the color: azure blue! No ceremony, interaction, accessibility and a healthy relaxation. The shapes, colors and flavors give, from the plant, from the vegetable garden of the Hôtel Hermitage, to the animal, a salty firework, from the pupils to the taste buds. Barbajuans, Balik salmon, crispy potato tartare, sea bass and beef, French oscietre caviar with crispy condiments praising the vintage, mesclun à la Monte-Carlo with vegetables from the garden, are chosen from among the cold starters and appetizers. vegetable works of the moment.
Balik salmon, crispy potato tartare © AA
In the hot part, the badaboum egg with caviar, poached, smoked cold cream, croutons a la minute is a real eye-catcher with its astonishing preparation that you discover during its incision. There is also the langoustine ravioli, printed with herbs and basil leaf fondue, of which you will have only one bite, the gourmet red mullet roasted in a crispy zucchini leaf, tomato fondue with mango and saffron then the sheet of wagyu beef with Paris mushrooms, capers and mushroom juice which, in itself, sums up Yannick Alléno’s cuisine.
Leaf by leaf of wagyu beef with button mushrooms © AA
Between the conviviality of the living room and conversations at the counter, we will enjoy Maxime Vaslin’s desserts, all in sweet lightness, such as the crispy feuillantine, almond ice cream, wild strawberries with elderberry, the fondant chocolate tart, baked in the minute and the one with Guinness beer mischievously serving as sweets. A 2017 red Bandol from Domaine Ray-Jan proposed by the shocking duo Sarah Ounis and Franck Damatte gives relief to these Mediterranean flavors made-in-Monte-Carlo
Guinness Beer Pie © AA
Pavyllon Monte-Carlo by Yannick Alléno at the Hôtel Hermitage
Square Beaumarchais, Monte Carlo
98000Monaco
Such. +377 98 06 98 98
Meals: 68 (lunch, served in 1 hour), 145, 235 €
Menu : 150€
Hourly : 12pm-3pm, 7pm-9.30pm
Weekly closing. : Open every day
