Monaco: a diamond named Ravin | Gilles Pudlowski’s blog
Triumphant return of our correspondent from the Côte d’Azur to Cognac, at Marcel Ravin and his Blue Blay, crowned last week with a second macaroon in Cognac…
Commune of Martinique, the Diamond takes its name from the large rock from which it took the form. With his two stars won during the 2022 Michelin edition, Marcel Ravin has in turn become a diamond of gastronomy, having known so well how to mix the Mediterranean with overseas flavors. Creator of exceptional culinary journeys in the land of unknown flavors, he has long won over a clientele from all walks of life. The number of covers now being reduced to thirty-five and the openings dedicated to weekend evenings, there will be a traffic jam for reservations, as for this second day of reopening which appeared to be full.
Zen atmosphere, refined dishes, welcome and perfect service provided by the dashing Jérémy Testa, and two menus resulting from the creativity of an enthusiast who has provided body and soul to his profession in perfect osmosis with his inseparable second Pascal Bodevier, former sous-chef of Bruno Oger at La Villa des Lys at the Majestic, Cannes. Unfasten your seat belts: boarding is immediate for round trips between Fort-de-France and the Principality of Monaco with slices of Mediterranean squid burnt in a citrus flame, condiments with squid ink, crème brûlée with artichoke, sweet potato, truffled pecorino, grated truffle, crispy tapioca, muge tartare, mango and candied pepper, black garlic with squid ink.
Peas, plankton, gambero rosso, head tea and large thyme make up the second gourmet postcard. The next day’s bread to be dipped in a signature olive oil with mandja (turmeric) will mark the break before returning to the organic chicken egg cooked at low temperature, cassava with truffles, passion fruit emulsion, fetish dish from the chef and a langoustine curry, sea urchin tongue and caviar, one of his latest creations. We continue dry with white asparagus cooked vertically in Indian wood, fish egg whipped cream with Colombo spices.
Between land and sea, fillet of wild bass confit in grape seed oil, blaff juice with coconut water, lean yogurt, dachine (tuber), vegetable herb oil and veal cheek with Tamarind with a super melting spoon, ravioli of foie gras, Mabi broth with curd, broad beans from the garden, will have conquered the most difficult. Throughout his feasts, the learned head sommelier Gérard Veyrat composes the perfect pairing with a Côtes-du-Rhône Terre de Galets 2017 from Domaine Richaud, a Coteaux du Languedoc Château Puech-Haut Tête de Bélier 2016 and a sumptuous Margaux Château Brane-Cantenac 2008 in its fullness.
As for the sweet outcomes that sign the end of this brilliant getaway, they are played out in the same tone, with the “pre-dessert”, a cassava crumble, sorrel sorbet, Bulgarian yoghurt emulsion, dash of olive oil olive, honey and pollen tuile, followed by a gourmet variation on chocolate from Marcel’s childhood or on his vision of life in pink in the spring, strawberries, peas and honey. As we say in Creole: i am good me !
The Blue Bay at the Monte-Carlo Bay
40 Avenue Princess Grace
98000Monaco
Phone. +377 98 06 02 00
Meals: 145, 195€
Weekly closing: Open for dinner Thursday, Friday, Saturday.
To place: www.montecarlosbm.com/fr/restaurant-monaco/le-blue-bay
Hourly :
Weekly closing: open on Thursday, Friday and Saturday in April and more according to evolution.
To place :