Experience cross-country skiing in Sweden
One of the world’s oldest winter sports, cross-country skiing is a popular way for people in Sweden to train when the temperature drops. It is gentler on your joints than running and trains muscles all over your body.
In the meantime, you can breathe in the crisp mountain air and enjoy lots of fantastic snowy landscapes. With the centenary of Vasaloppet (the most popular cross-country race in Sweden) which takes place in March 2022, there has never been a better time to test this national obsession. Here is our guide to the tradition of Swedish cross-country skiing, and how to try it yourself.
The history of cross-country skiing: a Swedish national obsession
Unlike downhill skiing, where slopes and lifts usually help you get around, cross-country skiers use their own body movements to push themselves over snowy terrain. In the centuries before trains, cars and snowmobiles were invented, this type of skiing was an important means of transport across the Nordic countries. By strapping on a pair of (then wooden) skis, people could travel long distances to hunt, gather firewood and visit family and friends. The word “ski” even comes from the Old Norse word slide, which translates as “a wooden stick”.
The technology developed into a sport in the 19th century, when the Norwegian military began organizing cross-country skiing races to help train soldiers for war. Today, tens of thousands of Scandinavians still compete in public competitions every year. Others take things at a slower pace and use their skis as an adventurous way to reach barbecues by the lake or picnic areas during the winter.
The Vasaloppet runs in March
Sweden’s most popular cross-country race, the Vasaloppet, is the largest public event of its kind in the world and celebrates its 100th year in 2022. The tough 90 km long classic course stretches between the mountainous cities of Sälen and Mora in central Dalarna. Sweden. Competing requires dedicated training throughout the winter, and it is not uncommon to see eager participants train on roller skis in Nordic cities during the autumn.
There are also a number of shorter competitions during Vasaveckan, which is usually the first week in March. Watching these events is also a popular spectator sport that is broadcast on Sweden’s largest TV and radio network. Tens of thousands of people also travel to Dalarna every year to cheer on friends and relatives, or to catch a glimpse of professional stars such as Britta Johansson Norgren and Oskar Kardin gliding past in colorful lycra.
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How to try cross-country skiing in Sweden
If you want to try cross-country skiing yourself, perhaps the most important first step is to pay attention to the famous Swedish saying: “there is no bad weather, only bad clothes” (There is no bad weather, just bad clothes). You will need warm and breathable equipment including thermal leggings, a windproof jacket, a headband or a light hat and gloves.
Cross-country skis are easy to rent at large winter resorts and cost around 350 SEK ($ 38) per day. You can also rent skis in most resorts and cities that regularly get snow during the winter, which can be a handy option if you are planning day trips by car to more remote places. Try Sports rent, which has rental stores in Stockholm and Gothenburg. Non-profit organization Fritidsbanken lend donated skis for free for up to 14 days from dozens of locations across the country, but there is less guarantee that you will find the right size or fit.
It is advisable to pay for an introductory lesson, especially if you have never skied before. If you have already tried downhill skiing and are in good shape, you will probably master the basics within an hour. Ski school prices range from about 700 SEK (77 USD) per hour for individual lessons, falling to about 300 SEK (33 USD) per hour for group classes.
Where to go cross-country skiing in Sweden
Northern Sweden has guaranteed snow
For guaranteed snow and amazing landscapes at high altitudes, northern Sweden is your best choice. It usually offers plenty of opportunities for cross-country skiing between November and April. Many of the resorts are perfect for postcards, with accommodation ranging from rustic wooden cottages in the woods to minimalist apartments and Scandinavian boutique hotels.
The flagship Funäsfjällen The area has 300 km (186 mi) of groomed, well-signposted trails, along with lots of rest stations, and is a popular place to take lessons.
Åre, Sweden’s largest ski resort, is an ideal location if you are eager to try cross-country skiing, while you have access to fantastic slopes and the country’s most vibrant nightlife for après ski. You must buy a day or week card to access the courses in both areas.
In Swedish Lapland, Kiruna – a popular base for tourists craving dog sleds and snowmobile experiences – has a decent range of cross-country trails maintained by the municipality. Day pass costs only 50 SEK (5.50 USD). Sunlight is barely that far north during the winter, but the general tracks are lit between 06.00 and 23.00. You must be prepared for temperatures below -10 ° C (14 ° F).
Central Sweden offers more forgiving temperatures
Dalarna in Central Sweden is home to Sweden’s lovers’ official start and finish points Vasaloppet races, as well as hundreds of miles of both maintained and wild ski trails. Here the ski season is slightly shorter than further north, but the lower altitude and latitude tend to offer more forgiving temperatures.
Sälen, a family-friendly village, is the most famous holiday resort in the region. It offers 250 km (155 mi) of cross-country ski trails and more than 180 alpine slopes. Other popular destinations are Mora and Örsa, at opposite ends of Lake Örsasjön, which freeze and sparkle for most of the winter. Be aware that the prices of accommodation throughout the area postpone during the race weeks.
The plus side of so many Swedes spending time in Dalarna to train before the Vasaloppet is that you will find lots of instructors who offer both private lessons and group lessons. Cross-country ski schools include Cycle & Length in Kläppen, just south of Sälen, Active Sports in Möra, and Långdcentrum in Örsa.
Southern Sweden is convenient for day tourists from Gothenburg and Stockholm
Billingen in central southern Sweden is a certified training base for Vasaloppet participants, and offers a handful of well-maintained tracks suitable for beginners. Located 3 km (1.8 mi) outside the city of Skövde, it lacks some of the rural charm of other popular cross-country skiing destinations. But it is a convenient all-in-one facility that offers ski rentals, overnight cabins and coaching. Located on the main train line between Gothenburg and Stockholm, it is a feasible day trip if you live in one of the cities.
Sweden’s capital may not sound like the most obvious place to make your first cross-country ski trails, but if you’m lucky enough to be in Stockholm when the snow falls, there is a range of free, accessible trails, suitable for beginners. Try Hellasgården, a lakeside nature reserve in Nacka, which is easily reached by bus from the center. There is a ski rental station on site as well as a public sauna where you can relax your muscles afterwards. Nearby Lidingö The island, accessible by tram or bus, has a handful of popular trails, including Långängen-Kottla stretch, which lights up after dark.
As Stockholm does not have winter-long snow, be sure to check the conditions in advance. On Skidspar.se, symbols show how much snow there is and how optimal the conditions are for cross-country skiing.
You can also ski in the champions’ tracks at Stockholm’s former Olympic Stadium, Stadium, which uses artificial snow during milder weather and is lit until 21:30 on weekdays.