The taste of Paris – Vanilla chicken from Boucan

Sugar Mizzy December 29, 2021

VSVanilla duck flax, one of the institutional family dishes, this polished version mirrors the cuisine of this freshly inaugurated bistronomic: thoughtful and remarkably executed. Barely rosé at heart, with a firm and juicy chew that reflects the requirement of the breeder and the taste of cooking at low temperature, this piece of bravo draws its originality from an assassination combining the power of a just reduced and the smoothness of a vanilla from Madagascar worked like a custard, subtle and light.

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Freeing oneself from clichés, that’s what it is for Paul and Basile Eidel, barely 50 years old between them. Thanks to a first confinement, the two brothers, then at rest, decide to attract their childhood dream after having made the reputation of the JAJA plates to share in Pré-Saint-Gervais.

Goal ? To pay tribute to their Reunion Island origins, to their mother and grandmother too – Cordons-Bleues and best ambassadors of this vanilla island – and to a gourmet father who introduced them to fine dining at a very young age. A tribute full of nuances. Lovers of bourgeois cuisine but nourished by their time, the first customers of an uninhibited Parisian bistronomy, these former DJ kids, willingly assiduous in reading a book The Great Cooking Class, are committed to deepening the techniques, to lighten, to twist the spices from there and the best of the local market. “We do not forbid anything,” they confide. Here, the menu is renewed in the mood and the heritage is only a simple note of intention.

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The same desire to take a step aside with a “house” rum, quince-mandarin or blueberry-prune, according to the seasons, with a selection of natural wines chosen according to their trips and with the complicity of their neighbor wine merchant. In the dining room, nothing mixed, but a sharp soundtrack, the sobriety of the rough walls, a few dried flowers on the bar tables, and the elegance of custom rosewood seats. A neighborhood address that benefits from making itself known.

Boucan, 8, rue Vicq-d’Azir, Paris 10^e. Open Monday to Saturday, 6.30 p.m. to 1 a.m. Phone. : 09 84 23 64 80. Count 35 euros à la carte.