The right time
Gourmets long for it, because the range of game specialties is huge, especially between the end of September and mid-November. While some bars only serve deer and wild boar in exceptional cases, others are right at the forefront thanks to good contacts with hunters.
Not all game is wild. In other words: connoisseurs should take a close look to see whether what they see on the menu and on the plate actually comes from hunting or breeding. If there is only a single course with deer on the menu of the printed card, there is a lot to be said for breeding. If, on the other hand, several species are listed on a special autumn map and the names of the origins, traders or hunters are also mentioned, the matter is clear.
By the way, farmed meat does not necessarily have to taste bad, and every piece from the hunt is tender and aromatic. While deer and wild boar are omnipresent, deer from Swiss hunting are rarer and chamois and wild fowl are rarely available. When it comes to game, Zurich can rarely keep up with the best restaurants from Graubünden, the Jura or other parts of Switzerland.
1. Graubünden big game in the “Ziegelhütte”
The game specialties are available from September 22nd to November 7th in this stain, die among insiders as having a reputation as Donnerhall. Also because in addition to classics – wild pepper, of course – there is also something that the gourmet is often looking for and rarely gets. Roe liver pate or deer tartare, for example, which should only be served if you are sure of the origin and quality of the meat.
2. «Hornegg»: a top-class neighborhood pub
It is one of those bars where you can still be noticed as a guest if you are not one of the regulars. When I was still living in Seefeld, I was there a lot – even on the last evening before the smoking ban came into effect, to puff a cigar reverently after dinner. Deer is traditionally made in autumn – in the form of a terrine, pepper or shredded meat. The wild boar fillet with Grand Marnier sauce shouldn’t be missed either.
3. «Tobelhof»: more than a restaurant …
… namely an excursion destination in the city. as far as possible restaurant his wildities from the Swiss Hunting Association, regarding sources of supply in Germany or Austria special. Here you can get game dishes that were thought to be almost extinct – like a venison sliced grand veneur, with that classic, dense sauce that used to be famous.
4. “Garden courtyard”: not just because of the garden.
There are excellent reasons to be in this even in the summer restaurant to stop off – and one of them is called a garden. You can sit here really excellent, shady and quiet. In autumn, game and pasta specialties can be combined here in a way that is not a matter of course. Also first homemade casarecce with truffles, then braised wild boar cheeks or flambéed saddle of venison with everything that goes with it: from spaetzle to chestnuts.
5. «Wirtschaft zur Au»: Wild with a difference
Wild with a difference. Nobody stipulated that deer should always be prepared exclusively with sliced meat or back with the appropriate side dishes. Also thinks of dying «Au» and serves roe venison sausage, roe venison braised in beer or the “pulled venison burger” with pear hummus and red cabbage slaw until mid-November. Great!
6. the “Storchen”: game in gourmet quality
Many gourmet restaurants completely or largely do without game, because first-class meat is often not available in such constant quantity and quality that you could plan a menu that would be served over a period of weeks. An exception is made by Stefan Jäckel, the chef of the «Stork»– «Rôtisserie» restaurants. The deer comes from the “Selection von Escher”, also from one of the best suppliers in Switzerland. In addition, polenta from the hotel group’s own Ticino production.
7. Quarter pub par excellence: the «Hermanseck»
Once you’ve become a regular, you’ll stay that way for a lifetime. Probably also because you don’t make promises here that you can’t keep. This is served after porcini ravioli and pumpkin crème brûlée restaurant B. Hirschkopfbäggli and venison ragout. After that, a Nesselrode dessert is practically indispensable.