Dahlia. The new place in Lisbon with cocktails, natural wines and food we didn’t know we needed – Restaurants
A British (David Wolstencroft), a Portuguese (Tiago Tiago), an Australian (Hamish Seears) and an American (Harrison Iuliano) were joined and said: “Let’s open a restaurant”. No, it’s not an anecdote, it’s the story of how the Dahlia, the new hangout in Lisbon, on Travessa do Carvalho 13, which we all needed and didn’t know.
This is because we already have some freedom to socialize and this space is an invitation to just that: eat and drink in a nice place, with records on the walls and on the turntable, which always has the vinyl cover that is playing next to no moment. However, here it is not turn the record and play the same, thanks to David’s vast collection of vinyls.
Choosing what we are going to listen to is not part of the concept – it always varies between jazz and blues -, as for the menu, we have complete freedom of decision. Starting with what to drink, natural wines are one of the offerings that characterize this space. But, after all, what is a natural wine?
“Natural wine is very misunderstood,” jokes Adam Purnell, manager of Dahlia. “It has to do with the way the wine is made, without any chemicals. What really defines a natural wine is the fact that it is not manipulated to taste in a certain way. way, that’s why almost everyone knows the same. Not natural wine, we let it happen to have a true representation of the terroir, the meteorology, the grape”, explains Adam to MAGG. Among them is the Climb Pet Nat Espadeiro rosé (€5 a glass), a sparkling wine that bubbles in your mouth like champagne.
The restaurant’s ambient music is made of vinyls, corks popping out of wine bottles and shakers mixing cocktails that come out at a frantic pace like we’ve never seen. Whether for the taste or the appearance, the truth is that they are always going out for an aperitif or even to accompany a meal. Among them is the hibiscus fizz (€9), one of the most popular, as well as the mezcal negroni (13€), a classic and the favorite of the American Harrison Iuliano. The best thing is to get there early to go through the entire menu, from the evening cocktails to the wines that complete the snacks in the evening snack.
We arrived at Dahlia’s second point: the food. Undecided between two chefs – Vítor Oliveira, former chef at the Damas restaurant, in Lisbon, and Gabriel Rivera -, Adam Purnell ended up hiring the two to head the kitchen of the new restaurant. As two minds are better than one, the chefs took simple and seasonal ingredients, added unexpected ones, as well as techniques, and the result is colorful dishes that, above all, eleven common ingredients to the highest degree .
We started with the sea, and well, some oysters from the market, with cherry slush (€5). If your mouth is not watering, it is either a consequence of COVID-19 or you have never tasted oysters. We go on to a cured beetroot (a little consensual ingredient that you should give Dahlia a try), with orange and pistachio vinaigrette (€6.50).
We continued with the menu, with a dish that, although not yet the best seller in the house, is now chosen by us as the best on the menu: Dahlia’s favorite tahini, with roasted tomato (€9), to accompany with bread Syrian homemade (3 €). And these are just like starters.
The menu also proposes more composed and more sustainable dishes: we are talking about caramelized cauliflower, with chimichurri (made with cauliflower stalks), and almond cream (7.50 €) and sealed shrimp, with chili bisque and kimchi, traditional brew in Korea that uses vegetable leaves and is eaten in this dish (10.50 €). In terms of meat, there are two options on the menu, but project partner Harrison Iuliano, who revealed to us his favorites from the menu for snacking, highlights one in particular: fried chicken, with spicy sesame sauce (10 €), how could he not stop being for an American.
Finally, muhallabia, kaffir and hibiscus syrup (5 €), the restaurant’s first sugar-free dessert, but very sweet. Cheese lovers will like this one.
The night doesn’t end here, you can stay at the table between cocktails and natural wine until 01:00. Did you or didn’t you need a space to dine and hang out? You’re welcome.