the Palace of the Popes Even though it receives nearly 700,000 visitors a year, it still protects rooms from any public intrusion.

Built by Pope Benedict XII from 1334, the Palais Vieux and its conclave room faces the Palais Neuf, commissioned in 1342 by his successor, Clement VI.

The whole forms a motley ensemble marked by a Provencal Gothic style with defensive and decorative architecture.

In this deposited set is the Grand Promenoir. Located above the Great Chapel and the main staircase, this space closed to visitors is a gallery reserved for the Pope’s wandering.

Another remarkable place, the ensemble formed by the towers of the Pope and the Garde-Robe.

If the public visit the rooms of the Cerf (Clément VI’s office) and the Pope, he does not have access to Saint-Michel’s Oratory and the “Haut Trésor”, the Libreria Magna.

This library housed almost all the books of Clement VI. One can only imagine it.

The final return of the sovereign pontiffs to Rome in 1403 was accompanied by the withdrawal of all “stewardship”.

The next step leads to the narrow and remarkable conclave gallery, furnished with cross ribs supported by iron bars. A technique that has made it possible to build the Palais Vieux and the Palais Neuf in 40 years.

We are now on the rooftops, dominating the city.

In the distance, beyond the Rhône and its famous truncated bridge, appears Villeneuve-lès-Avignon.

At the foot of the building: the forest of tiles, the bell towers of Old Avignon and the Baroque facade of the Hôtel des Monnaies, the most Italian in the city (17th century).

It’s time to go explore the streets and alleys of the city.

First stage : the Petit Palais.

Too often neglected by tourists, it is a shining example of an old cardinal’s livery, these ceremonial mansions built for the cardinals. There are about twenty between Avignon and Villeneuve-lès-Avignon.

Interior courtyard, shaded garden, crenellated walls… on three levels, the building looks great.

Its monumental appearance comes from its transformation into the Bishop’s Palace then the Archbishop’s Palace, in the 14th and 15th centuries.

Recovered by the city of Avignon in 1960, the Petit Palais has retained its Italian lineage: since 1976, it has housed the Campana collection, one of the most beautiful groups of Italian primitives in Europe, outside of La Botte.

Those who have admired the Botticelli room and its masterpieces “The Virgin and Child” and “Venus and three putti” will not say the opposite …

Behind the Palais des Papes hides the Banasterie district, a veritable cluster of private hotels.

Pass La Mirande hotel and its 5-star decor, heading for rue du Four and the Hôtel Galeans des Issarts. This private residence is open in summer to individuals, by appointment.

Perfect symmetry of the two-storey building, balustrade on the roof, corner stairs, shaded front garden, large central door under a pedimented portico… the charm operates.

Owners from the 14th to the 18th century, the Galeans, who came from Italy, were one of the most powerful families in Avignon.

The second floor has since been converted into apartments. Happy tenants …

A passage to the intriguing neighboring chapel of the Black Penitents says a lot about the religious hold in Avignon.

Built in the 17th and 18th centuries. in a pure baroque style, it recalls that the city welcomed up to seven brotherhoods of penitents.

Founded in 1586 by Italians from Avignon, the black penitents took care of prisoners and the insane.

Today dedicated to traditional Catholic worship, the chapel is only open during Friday and Saturday services.

The brotherhood organizes its procession of penitents to the Rocher des Doms, on Sunday before Palm Sunday.

Also in this Banasterie district, CSP ++ tourists stay at the Divine Comedy. An absolute must.

Imagine a haven of silence at the end of a dead end; a garden of cypress and bamboo, the largest Intramural Avignon, excluding religious congregations (2,600 m²); a spa and a swimming pool; a piano bar open during the festival; the song of the cicadas …

Gilles Jauffret and his friend Amaury de Villoutreys have thought big by buying the building, fitted out to rediscover the spirit of the 19C.

The house, once is not customary, is the old livery of a cardinal, that of Saluces. It now houses five charming guest rooms and an apartment.

Let’s leave the Banasterie to head south, direction rue des Fourbisseurs and the rue des Lices district.

We welcome the passage of the progressive pedestrianization of the city center.

Glance at Saint-Pierre church and its splendid carved wooden gate, before stopping at the Maison Fogasses, a large mansion rebuilt in the 16th century. It has been converted into a guest house.

The former property of the Bishop of Avignon in the 12th and 13th centuries, with its huge garden at the back, has changed a lot. It has become a bohemian chic residence, housed in six apartments.

We are progressing to the south. Let us admire in passing three other beautiful works: the hotels of Honorati de Jonquerettes, Fortia de Montreal and especially Berton de Crillon (all rue du Roi René).

The latter welcomed the court of Louis XIV when it arrived in Avignon, in particular the Duchess of Montpensier.

Do not hesitate to climb the staircase decorated with murals, it is splendid.

Near the ramparts, on the Place des Corps-Saints, the former church of the Célestins convent testifies to the takeover of the kingdom of France in Avignon. This now stripped place hosts exhibitions and opens on these occasions.

It remains to be seen in this part of the city the most unknown place: Ceccano delivery.

Rue des Laboureurs rises … the media library, undoubtedly the most beautiful testimony of the livery cardinalices of Avignon.

In this small intact medieval fortress, the ceilings and walls of the reading rooms still house original 14C wall decorations. Run there!